Saw chain recommendation?

[hanz63]

I have a little MS250 which is my go to saw for everything really. The standard chain is .325 .Would this saw run a 3/8 low profile chain for a more aggressive bite? Or does simply a more narrow kerf make a difference?

[KE4AVB]

I have a little MS250 which is my go to saw for everything really. The standard chain is .325 .Would this saw run a 3/8 low profile chain for a more aggressive bite? Or does simply a more narrow kerf make a difference?

The .325 is the more aggressive chain; take bigger bites, plus has more cutters per chain. In order change over the .375 (3/8LP) wound require changing the spur sprocket clutch drum and bar too along with changing the chain. Likewise in order to run a narrow kerf .325 chain you need need a narrow kerf bar. The narrow kerf would simply give more available power in the cut as it is cutting less wood.

[Arkie]

KE4AVB is right on about your 250 Stihl.

If you want more info and EXACT recommendations for what you are trying to accomplish from some Stihl and chainsaw Pro's about using a different style of chain for a more aggressive cut with the same pitch for your existing bar/sprocket you might try asking at this site forum. (or to make the change you suggest)
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/ ... hainsaw.9/

They will need at least the following info in addition to what you have listed here.
The length of the bar or the DL count. (drive link count on your existing chain and if you see any numbers/letters stamped on the Drive link tangs)

I can tell you this. If the saw cuts good like it is with a new good sharp chain, going to a .325 chain with a more aggressive cut on a 250 saw can easily overload the saw. Therefore you can easily come up with a NEW aggressive cut $25 .325 chain that you don't like with your existing bar or you can spend more for a sprocket/bar and chain at $100 to go to the 3/8 pitch and find your saw is overloaded.

Summary: You can probably go to as more aggressive cut chain with the same pitch and DL count that you now have just by going to a different style of chain for around $25 and if you then do not like the more aggressive cut you have not spent big bucks for a sprocket/bar and chain.

[KE4AVB]

Something else to think about too is how worn your current chain is and IF you filed the depth gauges back to specs. Undered filed depth gauges will lead to the chain chiselling less wood where over filing them leads the chain taking too much bite, overloading the powerhead, and makes the chain grabby.

I have sharpen chains where the operator says the saw just don't cut like it use to when it was new that had sharp and correctly angled cutters to find they never filed their depth gauges. Also be aware many of those that sharpen chains with the grinders can ruin a good due to improper setup of the grinder especially those grinders that I call chop saws with grinding disc. I just recently hand two chains that were just sharpen by local shop that were such mess it took nearly an hour to straighten of them out including replacement of a few tie straps that were half cut in two.

[hanz63]

Always seems to be a balance. Thanks gentlemen!

[Skywatcher]

Hi Hanz

In the woodworking community, like furniture and cabinet makers, when they're setting up routers, circular saws and other such power tools, there's a sweet spot in the cutting speed known as the correct chip loading. For example, when using a router with a new sharp cutter and the correct RPM, if the cutter is pushed through the wood too slowly, the wood will burn and the cutter overheat. On the other hand, if the cutter is pushed too fast, the wood will start to tear, the router will likely overload and burn out the motor. With the correct chip loading, the cutter makes smooth even cuts and most of the heat is carried away from the cutter by the wood chips. If you've ever caught the chips as they're flying from a router, you'll have noticed they are actually quite warm.

The same applies to the cutters on a chainsaw chain. Even if the cutters are nice and sharp, if the depth gauges are set too shallow, it has the same effect as pushing the cutters through the wood too slowly and will end up burning the wood and overheating the cutters. If the depth gauges are set too deep, it's the same as pushing the cutters through the wood too fast. Although tearing of the wood is not an issue when cutting firewood or the like, overloading the powerhead will usually result in burning out the clutch and clutch drum. I have seen where a chain has actually broken due to the depth gauges being set far too low. The saw kept stalling out every time the operator put the saw into the wood, so he brought the saw up to full RPM then dropped it into the wood at which the chain broke and wrapped around the log. Could have ended much worse.

When setting the depth gauges, you have to take into account; 1—type of chain*, 2—size of engine, 3—length of guide bar, 4—type of wood being cut, 5—moisture of wood being cut. All these should be taken into account in order to best match the equipment settings to the task at hand.

* Type of chain refers to cutter sequence—full house, standard sequence, skip sequence. Type of cutter— full chisel, semi chisel, chipper or ripping. Hope this helps point you in the right direction,

Sky

[bobodu]

Yep...leave it be. I suspect the designers at Stihl know thing or two about those saws.