Kohler K301-47138B

[KE4AVB]

Anyone know how much current the motor/generator pulls during starting? I appear to have a bad starter solenoid just wondering if one of the newer riding mower version can be used to replace it considering this Cub 125 is either a '68 or '69 model. Just hate to burn up a switch during testing phase. Just trying get the engine to turn over to see if the customer and myself is wasting our time.

Someone has already hack the wiring bypassing the neutral/brake switch switch just because trigger bracket is broken which is very dumb. I can fabricate one from scratch; though I might need to relocate switch.

[bgsengine]

I believe it was not a lot 20-30 amps if I recall - not much different than any of the Magnums or any of the older Command engines.

[KE4AVB]

Good I sure hoping I didn't need to order a solenoid, I just retro fit a modern solenoid then as I got several new ones on the shelf. I got the old one out and it had a 450A rating. I got all the new connectors in place today before heat got to me. It was a pain to get the old solenoid out. I wish I had a kid around close that could get their hand in there to put on the new nut.

This is my first K301 so I going to be taking it slow checking everything per the service manual and making notes on current draw of the starter. This Cub wiring remind me of old vehicle wiring with an electromagnetic voltage regulator.

[bgsengine]

Oh yeah those good old K-series.. sure dont build em like they used to - I used to rebuild them all the time (sometimes 2 or 3 a day) so kinda got to know them to where I can still pretty much tear down and re-assemble blindfolded (except cam timing etc, obviously) At the wheel horse (later Toro-WheelHorse) shop , we had no issues even using the aftermarket "universal" solenoid (same as the MTD riders at the time - late 80's, early 90's) - but back then I never did check starter amps draw - when they worked properly it was easy enough to tell by the feel of them (could detect bad bearings, failing brushes, etc just bench testing them, just by the feel of them) - Rebuilt lots of those starters too , still have my home made brush tool (Still have balance gear timing tool for the larger K-series and magnums that had balance gears, also) and considering those "universal" aftermarket solenoids back then were pretty cheaply made, I'd guess they would be lucky to handle 60 amps draw... so you're just fine with those Oregon/Stens aftermarket solenoids (typically 80 amps rated, anyways) since I'd likely take bets on those starters drawing less than 25 amps brand new, 30 tops in proper working condition.

Some of my K-series rebuilds from back in the 1980's are still running strong today on that original rebuild, with no burning oil or anything..(From the K91 to the K582, as well as KT Series, you name it Ive rebuilt at least one of em) ... damn cast iron engines lasted nigh on to forever. (which is probably why they quit building them.. hahaha) Much like the venerable old Ford 300 straight six, or the Buda Sixes, Cat 3306's etc - engines built so well they can last forever if maintained... Tell ya what, I ever find another ford F-150 4x4 with standard transmission that ain't a rusted out pile of junk and comes with a 300 straight six, I'll have found the last truck I ever buy.

[RoyM]

I saw a lot of them too, mostly on portable welders, and still have the timing tool although I no longer remember how to use it.

[KE4AVB]

Well I got it to hit on direct prime after cleaning and resetting the points but I might to borrow a jack hammer for the fuel system. I have seen carburetors gummed up but this is about the worst I have seen. All the way to the fuel tank, solid hard varnish.

I may may to get a bucket of that old dip cleaner; something I haven't used in 5 yrs to clean the fuel tank.