Another visit to old Wards Tractor...

[dart451]

Got Wards tractor back again from last year, customer saying engine running erratic. Found bottom carb screw missing at the manifold, thought this was the cause. Nope! Replaced the carb last year but the carb was so filthy that it certainly didn't look new! Cleaned carb, still had trouble getting a decent idle. Anyway, replaced carb again...runs ok but it runs too fast? Yes, I can idle it down with the throttle but there just isn't much difference when you push up the throttle a little, it likes to go full throttle! Now, the throttle has to be adjusted so it will engage the choke bar which is beyond full throttle. Is there a way to limit the full throttle so it's not over-revving? Normally? I've adjusted the carburetor as best I can on idle and main screw. I'm kinda stumped... Briggs flat head 252707-065-01, ser. 84092111.

[bgsengine]

there's a tang that governor spring hooks to on the control box side of things (not the governor arm) that is bent in or out to set top no load RPM. however if it ran fine before (assuming it wasn't rich down) I'd be thinking you might need governor static adjustment done - changing carburetor can slightly change the distance or angle of the linkage which can change governor adjustment.

[dart451]

You know bgsengine, I should have known that! Thank you for bringing it to my attention but, it's very hard to get at...the fuel tank needs to be removed in order to get to that side of the engine. I did take the control box off with the two screws and bent it a bit, didn't seem to make any difference. I think I will try a static governor setting... I know this ran fine last year but who knows who's messed with it since then!

[bgsengine]

You know bgsengine, I should have known that! Thank you for bringing it to my attention but, it's very hard to get at...the fuel tank needs to be removed in order to get to that side of the engine. I did take the control box off with the two screws and bent it a bit, didn't seem to make any difference. I think I will try a static governor setting... I know this ran fine last year but who knows who's messed with it since then!

Briggs makes a tool - basically an L-shaped 1/4" hex allen wrench with notches cut in the ends to fit over the tang - tool is put through the little gap on bottom outer corner of control box to reach the tang, while engine is running with a tach on engine, then you adjust tang to get the RPMs where needed. Must have a tachometer, but can fashion your own tool with a hacksaw and 1/4" or 5/16" all thread rod or similar piece (or if you have an extra long reach allen wrench in 1/4 or 6mm hex of the same L-shape) and a vise to bend your L shape..

But yeah should do static governor setting first (it's a habit for me any time I change the carburetor out..)

Edit to add - Same tool is used on pretty much all Briggs engines.. also used to set top no load on walk behind mowers and the like (though tool doesn't always quite fit so sometimes pliers or some hook type tool , or a thin screwdriver used instead)

[dart451]

Yes, I should get that tool...I did check the static governor adjustment...it was good...