Honda EB3500X

[rd265]

I have been tasked with getting an old EB3500X generator up and running. I have gone through the carb and the generator starts and runs fine until you try to power something with the generator, then it just shuts off. The item I was trying to run is a heat gun, was only using fan function, not heat. This generator does not appear to have much time on it at all. I do not have a manual for this particular model. I do have manuals for older EX3300/4500 models but am unsure if there is any carryover on technical information. I have pulled the generator cover off and there aren't any burnt wires. There is a jumper to ground that I am unsure of. At the top of the block where wires come from windings there is a yellow wire going to the 'W' lug, there is also a short wire from that same lug to ground. The crimping looks suspect as it is different than the other wires. I don't know how to attach an image on this forum. Any advise would be great.

[KE4AVB]

First you should need the wiring diagram which is in the operator's manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69403/Honda-Eb3500x.html

Then others here should be able to help that may work this particular generator.

I know how you feel when someone has been working on a piece of equipment. Just pull a 90CC ATV engine just to find someone has been screwing the valve clearances. It tested as if I had a bad intake valve. Leak down test failure at 80% with air coming out of the intake manifold.

[Arkie]

Are you indicating that the engine shuts off or the gen electric shuts off?

Need the frame serial number so as to get on the correct page. because of about 6 different versions of the EB3500X
Some of those have a GFCI 120 volt receptacle and if it's wired wrong or bad it will trip out. You can review online how a GFCI should be wired and it's function and why it will immediately trip
Some of the Honda's have a brown push button ckt breaker. It will get weak and require replacement with a white push button type.

Not enough info from you to give you a definite answer?????

example only of a frame serial number is: EA6-31XXXXX This number is on the frame not the engine

I would test a 240 volt load if it's a GFCI tripping. The 240v recept does not use a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter

Stay safe.

[rd265]

The engine shuts off as soon as a load is turned on. Serial number is EA6-3143631 and I have model as EB3500XK1 AG-B. The front cover upper area has a toggle switch Voltage Selector, GFCI test/reset panel along w/ a circuit breaker, and the 4 prong 120V/240V plug. Below that panel is another w/ three push button type 20A circuit protector buttons w/ a 3 prong 25A outlet, 20A duplex outlet, 3 prong 20A outlet (all are listed as 120V)
I don't see a way to post pics on here or I would.

[Arkie]

Are you using the auto throttle switch? (engine at idle when electric load is applied)
If so, turn the auto idle OFF and the engine should come up to speed and then apply load. If it continues to run ok you have a auto idle issue, like engine not speeding up maybe due the carb not allowing the engine to speed up rapidly or the auto engine solenoid not operating.

If you are not using the low speed auto idle and the engine is running fast and immediately dies when a load applied check the engine oil level and if ok try bypassing the low oil level alert. (the low oil level alert kills the engine when oil level gets low but can get erratic acting)

[rd265]

I typically have the auto idle off, this one is currently set to off.
I am looking at the wiring diagram on the owners manual supplied above. I have a short jumper wire going from the 4-lug block to ground, from the top post W on my unit. The wiring diagram has this listed as Blue-Green-White-Red. My unit the block is labeled Blue-Green-Red-White. this jumper wire on mine goes from the W post to the ground lug. this ground lug also has the green ground wire running from it to the control panel. This jumper wire seems suspect to me. Why would you ground your AC winding?

[Arkie]

The 2nd terminal in the wiring diagram is the W terminal. You say from the top post is W terminal on yours??

Check the other terminals and see if the wiring colors are correct per the diagram so as to make sure that they are connected properly color to color for the power wires. (may sure no wires are cross connected and wrong colors per the wiring diagram)

Since the generator is not connected to a external transfer switch you can remove the generator neutral to ground bonding wire you mention that someone has added and test. Brief explanation of why: The N is bonded to the chassis when a portable gen is used to supply a external transfer switch connected to another building elec panel. Also read pg 20 of the owners manual. which indicates it's not bonded from the factory on Honda Gens. Normally this would not cause your mentioned issues.
I doubt if this will correct the engine kill issue when a load is connected.

Load Test with a 100 watt trouble light or a lamp and set the voltage selector switch to 120 volt only. do not use 120/240 yet.

Safety item: Fire Hazard. I've seen portable emergency gen's when having electrical issues eventually start smoking sometimes after the engine has been running for several minutes and producing heavy sparks and electrical flames due to the Stator power windings start burning due to internal overloads/shorted windings. (this overload is before the safety breakers, therefore the breakers do not trip. The air flow through the gen also fans the flames making is worse the longer the engine runs.
Do not leave the engine running and leave the immediate vicinity of the generator and keep it in a safe place so as any electrical sparks, etc will not cause a burn down of the neighborhood.

It's always a good safety practice to treat all portable gen's as a fire hazard at all times when being operated.

[rd265]

I went back through the carb again, ran it through the HF sonic cleaner, and replaced the spark plug. The heat gun pulled it down some but it does pull 14.5 amps. The manual states that the circuit is 12.5 amps. Ran some Stabil through it and am calling it done. BTW I did leave that jumper wire as it was along with wiring in block. I always try to take pics with my phone when doing unfamiliar work.
Thanks for all your help.

PS 100 watt bulb, that's rich. LOL If I had one it would be in a glass case.
Have a great day. Now for this BR320...

[Arkie]

I went back through the carb again, ran it through the HF sonic cleaner, and replaced the spark plug. The heat gun pulled it down some but it does pull 14.5 amps. The manual states that the circuit is 12.5 amps. Ran some Stabil through it and am calling it done. BTW I did leave that jumper wire as it was along with wiring in block. I always try to take pics with my phone when doing unfamiliar work.
Thanks for all your help.

PS 100 watt bulb, that's rich. LOL If I had one it would be in a glass case.
Have a great day. Now for this BR320...

The item I was trying to run is a heat gun, was only using fan function, not heat.

What you indicate about the heat gun WAS loading the gen at 14.5 amps was what I was suspecting and is the reason I indicated to test with a 100 watt load instead of the heat gun. Did not really add up that the fan only that you indicated on the heat gun would load it enough to kill the engine due to electrical overload unless the engine was really starving for fuel and not running good. The fan only function from a heat gun would be a minimal load of around 1 to 2 amps at 120 volts.
Gummed up carbs on those Honda gen engines and portable generators of all makes and models due to not exercising at regular intervals is quite common. (even when using non ethanol gasoline)
The carb is about only thing on a Honda gen that can be replaced within a reasonable price range.

Good to hear you got it going.

[KE4AVB]

If I am not mistaken that unit is only 60 watts with 100 watts heater. Very much like Kendall version I had. It will take usually take a lot more than one or two cleaning cycles. I had some carburetor that half a day to clean evenwith hot water. The unit I have now is 160 watts UC power wise. So it usually take a couple cycles to most carburetor cleaned.

And yes the light is to if it will generate any power. I had 300 watts 60 HZ sine wave UPS that the battery pack failed but they insisted it was fine if it would operate a 60 watt light bulb. Of course it won't even do that but they still said there was nothing wrong with it.