Old TroyBilt Tiller Carb

[bgsengine]

creia:

After posting the questions below I stumbled onto a old service manual in my Briggs stuff for the vacu and pulsa jet carbs. See where some tubes are recommended need to be tapped and threaded for 12-24 so as to replace securely.

I've found some of the old ones where a tube had vibrated out of the carb and just pressing back in would not hold.


This engine has a "Pulsa-Jet" carb with those 2 fuel pick up tubes extending from the base which would need to be removed first, which I would not recommend.
Michael

Do any of you guys have any idea about how to re-secure the tubes in those pulsa jet carbs really secure so as they do not come out due to vib's?.

I think some are both brass and plastic mix.[/quote] all brass tubes into the carb body are a press fit, sometimes soldered in place - very very hard to remove without damage, and nearly impossible to press back in properly, without experience, heat and a ton of patience.. The had replaceable filter screen ends (or on the deeper tanks, nylon tube extensions) which may be what you refer to..

I think some of the older ones have a ball check in the tube.

The ones with the check ball in the tube are the vacu-jet carbs (single tube to pickup fuel AND deliver to carb's jets) - They had to have check ball due to the long distance fuel had to move to get delivered (it'd bleed back down when engine is off, making them very hard to re-start when check ball is not working) Pulsa Jet carbs don't need the check ball as they have the diaphragm flapper valves and the sump section of the tank (for the shorter tube) supplying the fuel to jets.. so fuel had to travel much less far to get delivered to carb body..

[lefty]

Thank you lefty- I really appreciate the report on these aftermarket Pulsa-Jet" carbs! I have thought about trying one out- not so much now that you provided your feedback. Seems like they are cutting corners in a number of areas (no surprise) I am offering my services (free of charge to you) to try and flatten out the base of the OEM carb you have with the technique I use. By the time you add shipping costs in for both ways, however, it might not be worth it. If you want, send me some good photos of that OEM carb base to my direct email michael.moore@charter.net and I'll take a look at it to see if I might be able to salvage it.
Michael

Thank you. I may send you those photos. But I'm not sure she's salvageable. The entire bottom looks to be cocked about 3-5 degrees from 90 in relationship to the vertical centerline when looking down the carb from the choke side. I say this because when I held it up next to the new one, you could really see the difference. The flat surface of the new carb looks to run perpendicular to the centerline of the carb. I'll try to represent it in the pics. Thank you.