Main jet removal

[BLES]

Hi guys!
Working on an 8hp Briggs 192412-1131-E1 today. I'm reminded of something I've wondered for years.... what do you use for main jet removal on these engines with this style main jet? There's hardly any material to "catch" with a regular flat blade screwdriver (as compared to the more common style with a full slot in the jet for the screwdriver). I have a couple "electrician's" flat blade screwdrivers that don't have a shoulder which work well for most, but they fall short on this jet style, too.
There's got to be a better way than mine...???
BLES

[bgsengine]

I always just used the OEM Briggs jet screwdrivers - there are two on with approx 1/4 inch shank and the other with 5/16 shank. There are similar options available out there you need a screwdriver that is basically just a round steel rod with one end ground to the proper thickness of flat and hardened/tempered - Closest I can find in similar vein is called a cabinet tip screwdriver , they are designed to fit into recessed holes without digging into the hole itself

Briggs part number 19061 (1/4") and 19062 (5/16") I believe.

[KE4AVB]

Basically the bit is a straight side hollow grind flat tip reaching across the full width. Here I use hex bits that I knock off the hex corners.

I might need to expand on what a hollow grind is. Normal flat tips have taper tip two ways. First there is the side to side taper but if look closer it is also taper on the flats too. This taper on the flats is what causes the tip to climb out of a hard turning action. With a hollow grind this flat taper is removed so the climb out factor is much less of a problem. The side taper is also a problem when you have a hole in the middle of a slotted screw as it doesn't span across the full width of the screw head. This why you need straight sides.

[BLES]

Sorry guys, I meant to post back sooner but I couldn't get on for a few days for some reason. I assume it was that update thing.? Then I forgot!

Anyway, I'm doing basically the same thing. I have various straight shank screwdrivers (cabinet) which I use, but still doesn't give much material to grab on in the situations where the jet is real tight. I like the idea of the ground down hex bits, too. Might have to try that someday.
Thanks.

[bgsengine]

You can make one if you find a reasonable quality screwdriver with the properly sized round shank (1/4 inch or 5/16 inch, depending on which size you are after) then cut off the tip of the driver leaving the perfectly round shank and then the tricky part - getting a square across grind to form the tip (lots of patience and knowing how to keep metal cool from losing its temper, unless the tool is made of M2 HSS or better - perhaps a standard HSS drill bit may do as well..but then you need to have enough non-fluted shank to craft the driver from...) You can buy HSS tool blanks on amazon of course - reason I specify HSS - preferrably M2 or better - You can grind it to blue pretty much, but it won't lose its temper, unlike carbon steel where grinding it blue ruins the temper of the steel.. Anyhow if you got the time and the patience (and the grinder) with the right steel it is easy enough to fabricate and grind your own tools - but by the time you get done buying the HSS steel or quality screwdriver, you may as well splurge on the specialized Briggs tool if you can find one available (I think Briggs discontinued them long ago, but you may still find em used or NOS on Ebay.)

[creia]

You can make one if you find a reasonable quality screwdriver with the properly sized round shank (1/4 inch or 5/16 inch, depending on which size you are after) then cut off the tip of the driver leaving the perfectly round shank and then the tricky part - getting a square across grind to form the tip (lots of patience and knowing how to keep metal cool from losing its temper, unless the tool is made of M2 HSS or better - perhaps a standard HSS drill bit may do as well..but then you need to have enough non-fluted shank to craft the driver from...) You can buy HSS tool blanks on amazon of course - reason I specify HSS - preferrably M2 or better - You can grind it to blue pretty much, but it won't lose its temper, unlike carbon steel where grinding it blue ruins the temper of the steel.. Anyhow if you got the time and the patience (and the grinder) with the right steel it is easy enough to fabricate and grind your own tools - but by the time you get done buying the HSS steel or quality screwdriver, you may as well splurge on the specialized Briggs tool if you can find one available (I think Briggs discontinued them long ago, but you may still find em used or NOS on Ebay.)

There are lots of the 1/4" shank (# 19061) OEM Briggs tools available on eBay, for as low as $ 18.00, however...
Only ONE listing for the 5/16" shank (# 19062) tool, at $ 125.00!!
I could use the # 19062 tool for (easier and less damaging) removal of the jets on the old/vintage Briggs I work on. Does anyone have one to sell?
Michael

[KE4AVB]

I think everyone is missing the point here about the 1/4 hex bits (about 2" long). They are tad over 5/16 across the flat tip (across the hex corners). You actual have to knock off the corners of the hex to get the bits to slip in pass the threads. And corners of hex bit has taken down even more for the small jets. Also the thickness of the tip is different between the two standard jet sizes. I go out tomorrow and measure the two jet removal bits I got made and have been using for the last 14 yrs. I just used the larger one Tuesday here on a grass filled Kawasaki carburetor.

With these bits you can use a small racket to get more leverage on jets as you press down and turning. Now some jet are really stuck and even with correct tool tip you may not get them out. I had few of the old nozzles to split.

[KE4AVB]

Finally getting around taking an image the bits that I use. The first two are 1/4" hex bits.