Need a coil

[jerkputter123]

I have an old craftsman push mower I use to cut the grass around my shop that quit firing. I need a coil. I don't have a clue what HP Briggs I have. Maybe a 6.5 or 6.75 hp ?
Here are the specs
126T02 1044-B1 07111458
I was hoping I had a used one but so far I can't put my hands on it. This one is dead.
Thanks

[KE4AVB]

If you order a new Briggs coil you would to order a new air vane too. Apparently they made a major change to the coil.

From IPL>

590454 ARMATURE-MAGNETO
-Also Order Ref #1386 Air Vane #790848

[jerkputter123]

If you order a new Briggs coil you would to order a new air vane too. Apparently they made a major change to the coil.

From IPL>

590454 ARMATURE-MAGNETO
-Also Order Ref #1386 Air Vane #790848

Thanks for that info KE4AVB. The mower isn't used much but I do need it back running. Had a nick in the plug wire where it was run under cover. Probably caused the failure. Hope all is well with you. Tom

[KE4AVB]

In that case are you sure the coil has failed or is it just the high tension lead? If the lead they can be replaced but take a little patience cutting it out so a new one can be inserted. Old coils had a screw in there and newer ones just have a straight pin.

[jerkputter123]

In that case are you sure the coil has failed or is it just the high tension lead? If the lead they can be replaced but take a little patience cutting it out so a new one can be inserted. Old coils had a screw in there and newer ones just have a straight pin.

I can replace that wire as this one screws in.
I removed the spark plug and used my impact wrench on flywheel nut to spin it over. I found it will fire a spark tester but I have to spin it really fast. When it first starts spinning I don't see any fire. I am using the HEI spark tester .
I didn't have anyone to spin it over with rope plus I don't see that good is the reason I used the impact wrench. I will get someone to pull the rope for me and check the fire doing that this week.
Here are the coil reading with my HF meter set to 20,000 Ohms.
From spark plug wire to kill terminal on coil I get 6.86 Ohms.
From spark plug wire to ground part of coil I get 7.86 Ohms. Not sure if the resistance is too high or not.
I set the air gap to 0.12.

[KE4AVB]

IS that Kilo ohms or just ohms on the plug wire lead to the coil metal frame? The secondary should in the kilo ohms or at least that what when I destroyed a new coil here just to find out how they constructed it. If are getting just 6-8 ohms that the secondary windings are shorted out.

Considering you said your meter is set at 20 kohms that reading should be 6-8 kohms which is good. Some of that resistance is going to be coming where the wire is nearly in two. Also different meter and leads can affect your actual readings. Plus I just don''t trust those harbor freight meters. The last one I had I just threw in the garbage and brought myself a decent meter.

And you need to be spinning the flywheel around 300 rpms for the newer magnetos to trigger. Old points coils usually were around 250 rpms before the points triggered them.

Also I posted this at midnight so I might be a little cloudy but a darn coon tried attacking one of my hens on the front deck.

[jerkputter123]

It was Kilo ohms . Sorry I forgot to mention that. The other reading was ohms. It was also late for me when I posted and I forgot to mention I had unplugged the kill switch when I made it fire.

Actually I forgot to plug it back in after I removed the coil to clean the rust off it. and set the air gap. I believe that is the problem but I was also tired when I went home and didn't have time to see why this was happening. It wouldn't fire when I would plug that wire back on coil terminal.

I have been saying for years I was going to buy a Fluke but I kept saying I was too old. Now I really am .
What brand meter did you buy ? I think I will still buy one . I have looked at a Klein in the past. The auto setting would be nice for sure.

I hadn't had much time to work on this old mower and I really don't need it right now . I just don't like things in my shop that don't work. Thanks for the expert help . Tom

[KE4AVB]

If the coil fires with the kill wire off and then will not with it connected then the problem is the kill circuit and not the coil.

[bgsengine]

I have been saying for years I was going to buy a Fluke but I kept saying I was too old. Now I really am .
What brand meter did you buy ? I think I will still buy one . I have looked at a Klein in the past. The auto setting would be nice for sure.

Klein looks to be a decent meter for hobbyist use But a basic Fluke 101 can be had for around 70 bucks... (Doesn't do Amps)

Consider: If you use a cheapo meter and replace a $50 coil that didn't need to be replaced because the meter isn't accurate, how much are you really saving by NOT buying the Fluke - Each time you test and fail a coil (or test and pass a bad coil) you are wasting that much more time (chasing after non-existent other issues) and money (replacing coils that are otherwise good and still having the issue) So, two $50 coils that you didn't need to replace will pay for that Fluke meter. (And if I didn't already have a Fluke , I'd probably buy the Klein based on their reviews on amazon - at $35 for the meter - and past experience with Klein tools)

[KE4AVB]

Personally I am using a TENMA DVMM which has a 10 un-fused rating on the amps side. But I usually pull the Clamp 40/400 clamp amp attachment when checking unknown amps. I blew the 1 amp fuse and got to get a new one. Oddball physical size. This has been with me for over 18 yrs.

It is the 30 yrs Heath oscilloscope that has finally failed me. I had used it since last year but needed it last month for an ATV pickup test. Darn that going hurt the budget to replace it.