Honda GX200 clone recoil plastic reel breaks

[lee]

Thanks for the manual. I pulled the valve cover off and was surprised to see the head looks like new inside with no buildup of sludge. I don't think this engine has a lot of hours on it. I checked valve clearance and the intake and exhaust are .006. I can see the ACR bump on the ex valve when turning the engine over. I put my compression tester on it and spun the engine over with a drill. The compression is 80 psi. The manual calls for a range of 40 to 60 psi. Do you think 80 psi is enough to be breaking the plastic recoil reels like it's doing? I'll go ahead and adjust the ex valve clearance down to the .005 min clearance and retest compression to see if .001 makes any difference in the cranking psi.

[KE4AVB]

Don't know it is or not; just according to PDF page 32 (manual page 26) 80 psi is the maximum allowed compression with proper adjusted valves and a working ACR.

Did you double check the valve clearance after tightening the jam nut? They do change the adjustment on most engines.

[lee]

Adjusted the ex valve clearance to -005 and retried compression test with drill. It's now 75 psi. I'm thinking the ACR is working as it should and the 15 psi over spec compression is due to my drill spinning the engine over faster than you would when normally doing the test by pulling the recoil. I then put the spark plug back in and spun it with the drill and it fired right up and ran like a top. What do you guys think? Arkie did I get some weak plastic in the two recoil reels that broke? BJ is the new recoil not compatible with the old starter cup? Note that the original recoil was missing. The previous owner said he didn't have it and was selling the whole tiller for parts. I told him no problem as I have a 5 HP Briggs sitting in a box ready to put on it. I'm thinking the PO owner may have had this same problem with the original recoil and maybe he threw it away? Maybe he didn't want to tell me it broke as he thought it might scare me away? If the PO broke the original recoil will I have any better luck than he had if I put an OEM recoil back on this? I'm thinking what I need is a new recoil that comes with a matching cup.

[lee]

I see u said 80 psi was max allowed starting compression. I probably tried to read without my reading glasses again. lol Anyway it's 75 psi now so it should be fine. Before I adjusted clearance it was 80 which was still in spec. So I'm back to looking at the recoil and the starter cup. When i adjusted the valve clearance I turned the engine over by hand a couple times and brought it back up to TDC on compression and checked clearance again to make sure it hadn't changed and it was still .005 on ex.

[bgsengine]

As noted, without the exact correct machine model number (model should be on the same label that serial number is on) to determine which particular build version, it is really hard to know for sure whether you ever did get correct recoil for it or not , if it was me, since it seems to run fine otherwise, I would splurge and get an OEM Starter cup and matching OEM Recoil (basically order off the same parts catalog) - As I said earlier, it is within possibility that even an OEM recoil is a revised version from an older version that worked with a different starter cup.. and if it is not an OEM recoil, then it may be possibly just a little bit different that what the original is (Just because they bolt up does not mean they're the correct one) - but if you get a matched recoil starter and starter cup, then you KNOW (as in no doubt) Only other thing that could cause a problem like that might be a sheared key (kickback) other than that maybe the starter cup itself is already damaged or deformed from prior problem (with the missing recoil) .. also makes me wonder, since they are right up front, if may be the guy hit something and smashed his recoil (which could cause damage to, and distort the starter cup)

Long Story Short. I'd suggest get a OEM recoil assembly and from the same parts catalog , the matching starter cup, and replace both at the same time.

[KE4AVB]

Brian the engine is a MTD 170-T0A engine based on the 9 models that the transmission PN posted only used on.

[bgsengine]

Brian the engine is a MTD 170-T0A engine based on the 9 models that the transmission PN posted only used on.

Right- yeah, but I HAVE seen variations (snowblower engines) - even the same engine models, on the same base model unit, differences showed in the build dates (model year) - much like many Cub Cadet decks are known for (SOOO many times people came to the shop after buying 2-3 belts online all different sizes and part numbers for their cub cadet.. none of them the correct belt to begin with but all belts were made for that model, just not that build date) Which is why I suggested just pick one, and order OEM recoil starter AND starter cup as a matched pair...

[KE4AVB]

I do agree that that OP needs get a matching set for the recoil and cup.

Kinda strange then that I haven't ran into that belt problem as I service a lot Cubs. Now with JD it is a problem here even with serial number as you can get the wrong belts especially if they noted the wrong serial number break. Toro is another OEM that has multiple serial number breaks. I looked one the other day that had 12 breaks.

My biggest problem with belts was the after markets which I have eliminated now. Still measuring belts though just make sure I am not wasting my time installing one. If the old belt still intact it gets measured too just in case there is a surprise fitment problem. That is one thing nice about having Gardner a day shipping time out. Heck a lot better than the week it was before for OEM and two days for the after market belts.

The only thing I wish the OEMs would do; however, is to publish their belt sizes instead of me having to find out on new belts that I haven't used before. I figure the reason is a marketing one for not doing it. Anyway it makes me more money having to correct all the DYIer screw ups of trying to fit an after market belt of the wrong size. The local auto parts store sells belts to them claiming they will fit and then they don't will not take them back because them have been installed. Anyone that has work MTD mower knows better as they are very picky about what will work.

I do; however, require that my customer that buys parts only provide model and serial numbers off the tags so I can personally look up the parts they are wanting just make sure they are getting the right parts. But that don't always work if some one modified the equipment. Sorta like the Yard Machines that I have here where I got a 5/8 deck belt on it instead of the factory 1/2 one. It is mainly because I have a 21 hp on it instead of the 16.5 hp it came with. It is my ride on bush hog mower now as I can cut waist high grass with it as long the deck can clear out the load. Just don't want run another stump with it. Boy did I tear up the deck. Took me several days to straighten it out after I replaced the broken parts.

[bgsengine]

I do agree that that OP needs get a matching set for the recoil and cup.

Kinda strange then that I haven't ran into that belt problem as I service a lot Cubs..

Might be regional .. but there is one particular model (I think it was 42" deck) where it not only has a serial number break on decks used (before/after dates) , but also depending on "with spindle Assembly #.. xxxx" so for one cub cadet model with that deck, could be as many as 4 different PTO belts - not only do you need model and serial, but you also need to figure out which spindles the deck has on it (and all bets off if they have put in aftermarket spindles that were not originally equipped to it, or put on a deck that was not originally equipped to it.. ) 2 of those belts are within a 1/2 inch of each other. There's been a couple times when I've sold belt to customer by part number they asked for, it didn't fit, so they got a different part number, returned that too, and I ended up refusing to sell them any more belts until they brought the whole machine in so I could figure out which was which. One customer tried to return 3 different belts they had bought from 3 different stores, none of which fit, as a "credit" trade on the 4th belt because the stores would not take the belts back.

[KE4AVB]

Bingo...Exactly the problem I am having with servicing the JD mowers as they keep changing the replacement spindles so much that I refuse to even try get parts; unless, the machine is in the shop here. It isn't that I don't the original part number, it is when I go to get the part and they hand me one that no longer matches the spindles on the deck and their only solution is for me to change all of them plus the belt and pulleys at times. Thank goodness that I have bearing supplier in Memphis that provide me with the correct bearings where I can rebuild the original spindles; whenever, I can. More time consuming but much less of a headache.

Boy what a nightmare some OEM and aftermarkets are causing lately with will fit parts. They don't mention all the mods we got to do to get them to work. No wonder customers get so frustrated trying to do their own work.