Ariens SnowBlower Governor / Throttle

[lefty]

I think I'm going to pull the large pulley on the bottom front that's connected opposite the friction plate. The pivot point and arm are behind it. I'm guessing that's a regular threaded nut, not left-handed.

[lefty]

So I pulled that pulley off and was able to take off the idler arm. Looks like the pivot hole has just worn into an oval allowing it to wobble in there. Once the tension of the spring kicks in, it racks it. I was thinking about welding a washer there but that would set it out a little bit and the rod has to penetrate another hole that is behind that tab. And it barely gets there now. Plus there's a cotter pin that holds it in on the backside and there's not much room to work with. Any ideas?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4XoKAFJzonWSgn7C9

[lefty]

I also just noticed that there is a groove worn into the rod portion that goes through the hole, creating even more play. What a mess.

[lefty]

...or maybe I could just bend that tab a bit?

[BeeZee]

If you have some 3/16" or 1/4" or whatever thickness that the tab is, just drill a hole the size of the original bolt. Cut or grind off the original tab maybe 3/4" above the oblong hole and weld the new tab on.

For the that rod, put some weld in the grove and then file it down to size.

Take care, Bernie.

[BeeZee]

Bevel the original tab and the new tab then weld. Do not Butt weld.

[KE4AVB]

Yes that bracket can be repaired if you are a good welder. I done a lot repairs to various brackets over the years. If the idler pulley has a removable bushing it makes the job easier as you could weld a washer to the bracket and install a shorter bushing. Of course a press is needed for the bushing. Otherwise here I would weld the hole up and using a die grinder with a cutoff disc to smooth out the back and front of the bracket. Then redrill the mounting hole in the right place.

As said the rod can if necessary be built back up and grounded or filed round again. OR if available just replace it.

Of course welding is a lot of work if you want to get things back to close to the original profile if you are not very good at it. It took me years to wire weld these as I had switch over from gas welding due to lack of gas welding rods.
When welding this bracket do your best to keep from overheating it

As a side note I have changing these idler bushing for some time now so I do have my own collection of various sizes. That how I get by without having to buy OEM idlers a lot of the time. Sometimes that only difference between some idlers. I just don't see reason to pay JD a huge price when I have the same pulley that just has a different bushing.

[lefty]

So rather than cutting away the old bracket and welding in a new homemade one, you're saying just fill the existing hole with weld and then drill a new pristine hole? I think I like that idea as it seems like there would be a higher probability of success as long as I can locate the new hole properly. And if it fails, the first option is still available if needed. The only problem is...I'm NOT a very good welder. I'm kind of new to be completely honest. I have a really good stick welder and a cheap flux core welder. I guess I could drill a few holes into some metal I have and practice a bit...after all, it's Friday.

I know most would probably suggest MIG for this but I don't have one, so my options are stick or flux core. Any preference?

[KE4AVB]

Yes if possible reuse the bracket as a homemade would work but getting to the same dimensions is problematic. Anyways there are times we have no choice but to make a new bracket.

Of the two welders I would go with the wire welder. The stick welder would simple develop too much heat on the sheet metal thickness of the bracket. Even with wire I would do stitch welds allowing things to cool as lay down the beads.

And yes it took a few years to weld sheet metal too with a wire welder. As I said I started out gas welding sheet metal. I actually had to weld Ford Ranger inner to outer front fender back together after my little took it apart during body work. I could lay down a bead that looked as well as an electric weld and when I need the weld as flat as possible. There were several mechanical typewriters, calculators, and other financial equipment that I repaired NLA parts over the years.

The biggest problem I had with my Miller Cricket was finding the right flux core wire. The local welding was selling me crappy wire. Never could get a good looking weld. Lots of burn through and spatters. I still prefer my gas welder over the wire weld for doing tiny metal parts. Probably why I had a ZERO tip. Now my Cricket is setup for MIG but I have never got around to buying a CO2 tank and regulators. Besides I am considering a TIG welder so I can do aluminum without being totally dedicated to only aluminum or ferrous metals. I can CO2/Argon on either on. OH I do know there is spool guns that is just something else for me keep up with.

Anyway I do nearly my lawn equipment body repairs now with the wire welder. I have seen attempted repairs by stick welders that simply looks horrible to me. And I have had grind out a lot of it to get things right again.

[BeeZee]

Lefty, if you are contemplating filling that oblong hole, do this first.

On a piece of flat stock material, drill a hole the size of the hole on the original bracket. Now fill it in with a weld. After you get the weld grounded flat, start your drilling process. I'll bet you that you will have a hard time drilling because generally a weld will be harder that the metal that is being welded.

Take care, Bernie.