older roto tiller with no spark

[bgsengine]

I just pulled out my 73 massey tiller which last fall would stop running due to fuel starvation . (I could keep it running by shaking enough to get fuel into the upper well).When I got it the year before I had to put points and condenser in it to get it running. I found the problem in the carb and cleaned it out. But it would not start even with a shot of carb cleaner. Found there was no spark. My testing found that I could get a spark if I just grounded the inline tester . But if I put it on the plug (old and new) there was no spark. I pulled the flywheel and the point gap was less than .020. I reset them and it's running fine. I do have a newer 5hp electronic coil I could put on it. In researching it seems that different flywheel keys are used. What is the difference? (other than 50 cents each , minimum order 10)

no difference in keys between point ignition vs electronic - they both use the same key # 222698-S but those keys you are looking at may be a 3-pack (5002K) or 10-pack (Briggs 4181) or some aftermarket version - the single packaged part costs (dealer cost) nearly as much as a 3-pack DIY package. so your best value as an end user, rather than a working shop that might use a few dozen keys a year vs 1-2 a year if that, would be the 5002K DIY packaged 3-pack

Briggs does have a couple other keys they used (like the "antique" ones that used a bolt-on keystone style key) but for the most part,the vast majority of Briggs engines used flywheel key = part number 222698S (222698)

[johnl_]

I think the advice given in this thread is solid, and expedient when it comes to reviving an old ignition. But given you have the time and don't mind the extra work, I find points ignitions to work very well. In my experience they give a much hotter spark at low cranking speeds, ie for start-up. I remember Briggs branded points kits for 2-10 hp engines selling for $5.75 retail back in the day, but now it's aftermarket, Stens on Ebay etc. to get the parts.

[bgsengine]

I think the advice given in this thread is solid, and expedient when it comes to reviving an old ignition. But given you have the time and don't mind the extra work, I find points ignitions to work very well. In my experience they give a much hotter spark at low cranking speeds, ie for start-up. I remember Briggs branded points kits for 2-10 hp engines selling for $5.75 retail back in the day, but now it's aftermarket, Stens on Ebay etc. to get the parts.

Briggs still has the 294628 points kit available - only thing is, most dealers don't even stock them any more - they're *very* slow moving parts, and often "special order" - they're also quite a bit more pricey these days... So... they're available, but usually a dealer will have to order them - the aftermarket kits , I find , are consistently inferior to the OEM kits so we don't even think about ordering them in.. the ones you find on ebay, etc I would bet you that a good 90% of them are being drop-shipped from Stens, and not stocked on the shelf by the seller...

[plotthound]

hopefully this weekend I will pull the cord on that sucker and till the garden.

[plotthound]

that ignition kit is the best money I have spent.tiller has been sittin since last fallm5 pulls on the cord and its running,tilled the gardes for an hour and it ran perfect.

[38racing]

Don't bother pulling the flywheel, Cut the wires, replace the coil and call it a day. The old cast iron engines won't accept Magnetron without a flywheel change but yours is no problem.

I just watched a Taryl video on YouTube on converting an old cast iron Briggs to electronic. He used the 398811 coil but due to the magnet issue he just reversed the coil. Ran fine. He also did it using the original coil and a nova ii. In that case he had to shift the original coil to adjust the timing a bit. The coil was on a bracket that was designed to be shifted.
https://youtu.be/Yx6AF8APVEQ