older roto tiller with no spark

[David]

I would be afraid of breaking one of the ears of the starter clutch if hitting it, I think the same starter clutch wrench that fits the 3 and 1/2 hp. lawnmower engine fits that one and pushes on all 4 ears so as not to overload just one ear. Also the clutch which doubles as the flywheel nut needs to be torqued back on or the flywheel might shift,shearing the key. Washer under that clutch must go back on exactly the same as it was?
I think there is a German made pointless ignition armature as an aftermarket part. Stens? Might have to buy the plunger hole plug separately?

[38racing]

That starter remover and small engines parts are available online in Canada from www.bantasaw.com . Online and telephone order only shipped from near Belleville Ontario. I've been buying from them for several years now. There are some USA suppliers who ship to Canada. One that handles the shipping and brokerage etc at a fair price is www.repairclinic.com.

[plotthound]

i ordered that part yesterday from our local small engine shop.50 bux plus tax,thought that was ok.

cheers

[Merkava_4]

I would be afraid of breaking one of the ears of the starter clutch if hitting it,

Think of a wooden broom handle cut at six inches and using that in conjunction with an eight ounce ballpein hammer. I've done it about a hundred times and have never broken an ear. Two firm smacks on the broom handle and that starter clutch is set in motion spinning off the crankshaft. One little tidbit: Put the screws back into the starter clutch after removing the screen before smacking on it; otherwise those steel balls will come flying out.

[bgsengine]

I would be afraid of breaking one of the ears of the starter clutch if hitting it,

Think of a wooden broom handle cut at six inches and using that in conjunction with an eight ounce ballpein hammer. I've done it about a hundred times and have never broken an ear. Two firm smacks on the broom handle and that starter clutch is set in motion spinning off the crankshaft. One little tidbit: Put the screws back into the starter clutch after removing the screen before smacking on it; otherwise those steel balls will come flying out.

Annddd.. How do you *torque* it back on to the right spec? I know I used to do things that way too - and rarely, but still often enough, we would have a sheared key that had to be re-done... in this day and age when time is money and quality of work is everything, I wouldn't dream of it though. It does the job in a pinch, but it isn't good enough for those who want it done *right*..

Also, I *Have* broken a few of those ears over the years, and many more that came in with them being busted off (as well as flywheel fins) no matter how much care is taken.. When those starter clutches started costing $15 - $20 and change to replace (not counting labor), well , it isn't worth the risk any more.

[Merkava_4]

Annddd.. How do you *torque* it back on to the right spec?

By using the same quick love taps I used to loosen it.

[Mek-a-nik]

Everyone has taken shortcuts at on time or another.
Merk, if you were doing that one or twice, hey, what the heck. If you've done it "a hundred times", you should really consider investing in the correct tool. If its for a customer, and they're watching, they're a LOT more likely to return.

[KE4AVB]

Everyone has taken shortcuts at on time or another.
Merk, if you were doing that one or twice, hey, what the heck. If you've done it "a hundred times", you should really consider investing in the correct tool. If its for a customer, and they're watching, they're a LOT more likely to return.

Good advice.

I started out using the hammer and punch method too but quickly realize I was wasting time and money. It only takes a few seconds with an impact to remove vs minutes with hammer punch method and without the risks. Re-torquing to specs is no longer guess work with the tool.

In just the first few times I used the starter removal tool it paid for itself especially on one that was crossed thread. Still don't how the customer did it but he did.

[plotthound]

installed the new coil today and boy what a difference it makes on that old tiller.2 pulls and away it went,sat there and let it idle for 15 minutes and it never sounded better.

thanks for the pointers.

[38racing]

I just pulled out my 73 massey tiller which last fall would stop running due to fuel starvation . (I could keep it running by shaking enough to get fuel into the upper well).When I got it the year before I had to put points and condenser in it to get it running. I found the problem in the carb and cleaned it out. But it would not start even with a shot of carb cleaner. Found there was no spark. My testing found that I could get a spark if I just grounded the inline tester . But if I put it on the plug (old and new) there was no spark. I pulled the flywheel and the point gap was less than .020. I reset them and it's running fine. I do have a newer 5hp electronic coil I could put on it. In researching it seems that different flywheel keys are used. What is the difference? (other than 50 cents each , minimum order 10)