valve setting

[bgsengine]

I have seen some of the new Briggs engines start to leak from the sump gasket some where around 20 hrs or so. So my opinion is to use the sealant on both sides just thin coat will do.

New gasket has a sealant bead already , if it is OEM that is - no need for sealer. It was added for this very reason you mention.

Hate to have to redo a lot of work for just a gasket in so little time. Kawasaki engines not as bad to leak from what I have seen they have more hrs most time. Just my thoughts.

[Luffydog]

Their gaskets don't seem to hold together I have tried both ways this year. On one unit It came back for an oil leak for the second time. When I pulled the sumo off part of the gasket had already had damage and was leaking. No sealant was used it only lasted about 3 months since I serviced it and put the gasket on. On the other unit I did in early start of season seen it last week for a service and yes I did look at the sump gasket because I already had one back. This unit I did use and so far knock on wood wasn't leaking. This stuff I use is blue in color and very hard to get apart. So I have to say the sealant does its job. It is a gasket maker think it was talked in a few post back. I would almost most say u could use this with a gasket. It is good stuff in my thoughts.

[okie]

Is this what you need Okie?

That's just what I wanted. Thanks KE4AVB

Also thanks Brian and Luffydog for your thoughts


Travis

[bgsengine]

Actually it appears I had a typo when I was looking at my gasket images - the 697110 does not have a sealing bead on the gasket.

However, I still would not recommend adding a bead of sealant to them to be honest with you. every time I have seen a sucked-in gasket there has been a root cause of excessive heat involved (Or , on "brand new" ones. insufficient torque at the factory and the bolts fell out)

Not sure why Arkie Luffydog (Not sure why I wrote Arkie) saw issues with then - we never did see come backs but then it may have to do with technique and torque as well (clean and dry sealing surface, which is also checked for nicks and flatness, lightly oiled bolts, torqued to spec in proper sequence.) if you absolutely have to use a sealant on gasket I'd say Loctite 518 would be what we'd use. (and have used on some troublesome chainsaw gaskets)

[Luffydog]

The one that did come back is a heavy commercial used unit hours at a time. It did have some build up around so thinking heat and vibrations was a good factor of why it came back for a small leak. Did check flatness and check for nicks. Bolts was torqued at the new specs and in order as called. Maybe I just made a simple error somewhere I just didn't see.

[okie]

Update
Thanks to those who helped.
Little mower running as good as ever. Had to chase down electric problem (starter solenoid). Starts and runs as good as ever. Only time will tell if any leaks.

Travis

[KE4AVB]

Here I have been using Permatex Ultra Grey for the valve covers and on those Kohler engines that don't have crankcase gaskets. I also using to seal the crankcases on two cycles that I have replacing PNCs on. It has a much broader operating temperature range. I haven't had any complaints of leaks and the grey color matches the aluminum much better.

I did need remove a Briggs valve cover that I installed a little over a year ago to readjust the valves and it was still holding very well. Matter of fact I had use a sharp putty knife and hammer to work the cover loose.