Honda GC160 Oil Switch

[Mek-a-nik]

The damned thing is in the crankcase!
Engine shuts off clean after 10 minutes. When I bypass the switch, it'll run forever.
Honda silicone and 45* cylinder/crankcase assembly is a killer!
It has a water pump attached to it. I'm not sure where to start, other than here and google.
I have the cam gear out, bolts out of the crankcase to cylinder, governor rod off, vacuum hose off.
Not sure whether the pump or the flywheel has to come off.
Sorry, venting!!!!!!

[Mek-a-nik]

The service manual here: http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/documen ... 49009c4f6e
says oil switch replacement is in 8-12. It only shows 3 sections.

My biggest question is: How do you pull the cylinder up, when the crankshaft is sticking out of it?

[HondaG100]

I assume this customer is pretty serious about having an oil alert? I say unhook the thing and send it out. I remember when people used to check oil levels instead of letting the engine do it.

[Mek-a-nik]

I assume this customer is pretty serious about having an oil alert? I say unhook the thing and send it out. I remember when people used to check oil levels instead of letting the engine do it.

Mainly, I misdiagnosed it initially as a delay switch, or whatever the small square box is called. Then, I didn't realize the oil switch was inside, thought it would be on the outside. I told him I'd make it right, but I can't get it apart! Now, the case seal is cracked and I need to get apart to clean and seal the surfaces. I'm ready to put it back and tell him to check the oil. I gave him that option, but he wanted to make it right, and so did I. If I had checked the job out better, I'd of told him to check the oil, now I have myself in this mess. it's for a seaside condo and their parking garage is below sea level. Employees don't check oil. They have a built in pump system, but it gets overwhelmed.
I just priced a similar one- $356 plus sh. Buy a new one!

I have the flywheel off, no help. Pulled the pump housing, the impeller is in the way of the mounting bolts, and the impeller is well rusted in place.

I can't see how the cylinder can go vertically over the piston, and horizontally over the crank at the same time. I can only guess that removing the pump would help, but it aint budging.

[Mek-a-nik]

The customer, head of maintenance for this condo, agreed with me that putting it back together and checking the oil was the thing to do. I explained that re-sealing the crankcase could be iffy. I did so with Permatex Aviation Liquid Form A Gasket. The small gap that I had wouldn't allow silicone.
I ran it for 35 minutes after reassembling it. No leaks, ran fine. I had the oil alert hooked up and it didn't shut off?! A few years ago, Nevada Walrus told me on PERR that the oil alert switch in certain Briggs engines would stick after an oil change. I wonder if this had the same kind of issue?

I still don't understand how to remove the cylinder from one of these engines. It appears that it would have to go horizontally and vertically at the same time.

Bottom line on this job: I didn't look for that oil switch in the beginning. If I had, I would've told him upfront that it's not worth going into for a switch, and to just check the oil.

[bgsengine]

I still don't understand how to remove the cylinder from one of these engines. It appears that it would have to go horizontally and vertically at the same time.

:

with the crankcase split the "bottom" half comes off the PTO end of the crank (which in your case, the pump was stuck to) and then you pop the rod cap off, push piston to TDC, turn crank til it clears rod and pull it out, then pull piston and rod assembly e - piston and rod go in first , then crank, rod cap, and finally the cover

I hate the damn things and every chance I get try to talk the owner into a re-power with a briggs engine.

[RoyM]

I remember telling my boss, a Honda dealer, I couldn't believe this manufacturer would put their name on these engines. They are miserable to work on.

[Mek-a-nik]

with the crankcase split the "bottom" half comes off the PTO end of the crank (which in your case, the pump was stuck to) and then you pop the rod cap off, push piston to TDC, turn crank til it clears rod and pull it out, then pull piston and rod assembly e - piston and rod go in first , then crank, rod cap, and finally the cover

I figured if the PTO end were "freed up", it would help. Jeez!

I remember telling my boss, a Honda dealer, I couldn't believe this manufacturer would put their name on these engines. They are miserable to work on.

I said just about the same thing to the customer.

Of course, it had to be on my first job with this customer, a large condo with mucho equipment. Doesn't know me from Adam. But he appreciated my efforts and has already given me a back pack blower to look at, and has several pressure washers at a shop and hasn't heard from them in 2 months! I will be seeing them as soon as he "recoups" them.

There was a line of storms coming at us yesterday, and he needed the pump. Plus, we're leaving for a quickee vacation today. Just a little bit of pressure...