Tecumseh Carb kit now leaking

[mulch]

I have a H50 series 1 carb. I bought and installed the carb kit. After I was done I noticed that it started to leak from the main needle. When it came to putting together the main needle I realized that the kit came with just orings. This does not seem to seal proper. Do kits not come with the rubber "washer" to fit under the brass washer? Did I miss something? Is this the worng kit?
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/products/TECUMSEH/Carburetors-And-Parts-4-Cycle/Carburetor-Kits/31840/2344635/s

[bgsengine]

I have a H50 series 1 carb. I bought and installed the carb kit. After I was done I noticed that it started to leak from the main needle. When it came to putting together the main needle I realized that the kit came with just orings. This does not seem to seal proper. Do kits not come with the rubber "washer" to fit under the brass washer? Did I miss something? Is this the worng kit?
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/products/TECUMSEH/Carburetors-And-Parts-4-Cycle/Carburetor-Kits/31840/2344635/s

Yes they are supposed to have the brass washer (630739) and the o-ring seal (630740) on both the main jet needle and idle speed needle.

OEM kits are typically pre-assembled needle into the bowl nut complete with spring, washer, 0-ring, while aftermarket kits are often not and just loose pieces that get lost. very rarely , but a time or two I have found a defective OEM kit with missing pieces that should be there.. (And I have also found OEM parts double or triple packaged when there's supposed to be just one!)

[KE4AVB]

Darn BGS you beat to it... All I can add is the following.

Mulch, You kinda answered your own question here. One of the o-ring goes under the brass washer. Here how the power needle is assembled.

[Arkie]

It's quite common for the high speed jet to have the aggravating slow drip leak at the little o ring area especially after the carb has set for long time and the high speed jet re-adjusted or if removed and reassembled wrong . Sometimes pieces or gunk of the old o ring are still inside the retaining nut.
Make sure you install all correctly and the little flat washer.The little flat washer keeps the spring from chewing on the o ring when adjusting and the spring has to be long enough to press the washer against the o ring to swell the o ring for a seal.
The bowl retainer nut will usually seal ok with a brass washer if tightened snug.

The little o ring is a aggravating type slow drip leak. If you replace the itty bitty o ring and the next one leaks you need to inspect the bore of the retainer nut and polish the inside and inspect the retainer nut for a small hair line crack if it's brass and use a 6 point hex wrench when snugging up the retainer nut so as to eliminate distortion.

It can be made to seal with patience. Also make sure that the leak is starting from where you think it is and not from a small pin hole in the bowl or porus bowl.

[Skywatcher]

Hi Mulch

To add to what Arkie says, the float bowl is aluminum so although it will not rust, the ethanol in today's fuel when phase separating tends to eat right through the float bowl. Pin holes or perforations can usually be detected by holding a finger over the bowl nut hole and holding the bowl up to a strong light while looking into the inside of the bowl. OEM float bowls are not expensive and aftermarket ones are even cheaper, although the quality and fit of aftermarket may not be as good as OEM. Hope this helps,

Sky

[mulch]

Darn BGS you beat to it... All I can add is the following.

Mulch, You kinda answered your own question here. One of the o-ring goes under the brass washer. Here how the power needle is assembled.

This is how I put it together, oring, brass, spring. The old seal seemed to be concave washer. Or was it caved over time? I am sure it is leaking from the adjuster. Fuel actually collects on the end of it and nothing on the retainer. It just doesn't seem tight enough to seal.

[KE4AVB]

then it may just need a better sealing o-ring. I have had a few where o-ring didn't as tight as it should.