Trouble removing brass seat

[Rpmp3]

Toro machine, Briggs, model number 121S02-0130-F1, carb kit I have 592172. I am doing carb rebuild needle leaking, The carb is to small for me to use my traditional method of running 1/4" tap in seat and using a 1/4 socket inside 1/4" bolt with nut to pull it out, just not enough real estate any thoughts on get the old seat out without damage thanks

[bgsengine]

Honestly on those little carburetors it would be a better idea to just replace the whole carb - I mean think about it - carb kit is $28 and you still have the hassle of trying to rebuild it - vs a complete O.E.M. replacement carb which would be around $43 (591137) - so for 15 bucks more you save yourself half an hour's worth of hassle and if you're a pro shop charging 65 bucks an hour (if not more) you save your customer a ton of money by replacing rather than repairing.

[KE4AVB]

Very simple to do if you have the basic tools.

Soft jaw vise (padded), Slip joint pliers, Self tapping #10 steel metal screw approx 1-1/2 long (Size and length may vary)

Remove fuel bowl, float, and needle valve.

Invert the carburetor and clamp in vise.

Reinstall the bowl retaining bolt in the center tower.

Screw in the screw into the needle seat.

Now using the carburetor center tower as a fulcrum point and using the slip joint pliers grasp the screw under its head pull the seat out by pressing down on the pliers handles.

When pressing the new seat only press in to where float/needle set is level or slight above level referencing the carburetor bowl mount. You can always press in little lower if need later. You just can't raise it without damaging the seat.

This is the same basic procedure used when replacing the Kohler Command/Courage Walbro carburetor seats. The only difference is they provide the bolt, the screw, and a plastic pressing block in their replacement kit along with the seat and a carburetor repair kit

[Rpmp3]

Thanks for the responses, I found a solution, I tapped seat 1/4" then drilled a hole in center of a 40 caliber shell took a 1/4 bolt run a nut all the way to top of bolt slid 40 cal shell over bolt then screwed bolt into seat that I tapped ran nut to 40 cal shell then tighten nut and pulled seat right out, worked like a charm. I put new seat in freezer for tomorrow try add a little heat in hopes to make new seat slide right in, wishful thinking.

[KE4AVB]

Don't have any 40 cals here just a 357 mags but all the used ones are side split. Its a real pain to eject them.

[Luffydog]

after you fire off a couple rounds of each youve spent more than the carb is worth inclulding the shipping.

[Mek-a-nik]

That new carb, for $43, is sounding pretty good.

[bgsengine]

That new carb, for $43, is sounding pretty good.

Yup - I always look at the price of a new carb before even starting tear-down any more - at shop labor plus parts, anything much more than gaskets and float needle (and/or viton seat) and they usually get a new carb instead - by the time labor is figured in on a rebuild, ultrasonic soak, parts, etc - costs more to rebuild the carb (especially with a kit a $28) than to replace it.

[Mek-a-nik]

Being a mobile biz, I tend to rebuild, because I can't justify a return trip. But I have a few Honda carbs, and a couple of Stens B&S replacements on the truck.

[bobodu]

That's why I shoot Commie rifles and 9mm.....I buy my ammo 1000 rounds at a time.