Carb problem- general

[Earlybird]

I was refreshing my memory to make sure I installed the needle retainer correctly in a Tec. snowblower carb. I don't have a model number, but I believe it was a series 1 carb.
Found this: "Always remember the open end of the needle
clip on a TecumsehPower carburetor, faces out
toward the air cleaner side." So I did that correctly.

Is this correct for all Tec. carbs? Carbs in general? What happens if installed pointing toward the intake side? I usually try and install parts as they were removed, but that does not mean it was correct before.

The problem the carb had was: I could adjust the main mixture and the idle mixture and the engine ran good, but when going from idle to wide open it would run rich, rough, and spit fuel out of the air inlet for a minute or so until it recovered. I had cleaned the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner, new needle and seat kit, and new mixture screw o-rings. I put on a used carb and it ran ok.
I'm wondering what to look for if I get another one like this.

Also, how do you tell which carbs have the ball that should rattle? It's obvious if I do hear it rattle, that it is there and working.

Thanks

[bgsengine]

I was refreshing my memory to make sure I installed the needle retainer correctly in a Tec. snowblower carb. I don't have a model number, but I believe it was a series 1 carb.
Found this: "Always remember the open end of the needle
clip on a TecumsehPower carburetor, faces out
toward the air cleaner side." So I did that correctly.

Is this correct for all Tec. carbs? Carbs in general? What happens if installed pointing toward the intake side? I usually try and install parts as they were removed, but that does not mean it was correct before.

The problem the carb had was: I could adjust the main mixture and the idle mixture and the engine ran good, but when going from idle to wide open it would run rich, rough, and spit fuel out of the air inlet for a minute or so until it recovered. I had cleaned the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner, new needle and seat kit, and new mixture screw o-rings. I put on a used carb and it ran ok.
I'm wondering what to look for if I get another one like this.

Also, how do you tell which carbs have the ball that should rattle? It's obvious if I do hear it rattle, that it is there and working.

Thanks

Yes the direction of the needle clip is correct for all Tecumseh built carburetors

The carbs that have the rattle: - It is not a ball. it is a metering rod. a long steel rod approximately a half inch long the ones that should have it will have an AIR MIXTURE adjustment needle - same location as idle mix adjustment but the needle is very different - from the threaded portion you have a long smooth needle body section and a "fast" taper with a somewhat rounded needle tip - as opposed to mixture adjustment needles with a sharply pointed tip.

You must be very careful with them to remember to install the mixture adjustment screw while the carburetor is oriented in its operating position (float down) - if you do not, the metering rod can fall down into the idle mixing chamber and the end of the needle can bend it over (and damage the needle tip) - bent metering rod = no rattle = junk carburetor.

If you get one of those "rattlers" - get yourself a strong light so you can see down through the idle air adjust screw hole , turn the carb upside down and you'll see the metering rod fall down into view.

Air mixture adjustment means you turn the screw IN to enrich the mix and OUT to lean it out - opposite the usual adjustment procedure - because it is actually controlling the air flow into the metering chamber which has a fixed fuel delivery rate so make sure you were adjusting your "idle mixture" correctly It also means that your air inlets in the carburetor throat (air bleeds) need to be clear.

[Earlybird]

Yes the direction of the needle clip is correct for all Tecumseh built carburetors

The carbs that have the rattle: - It is not a ball. it is a metering rod. a long steel rod approximately a half inch long the ones that should have it will have an AIR MIXTURE adjustment needle - same location as idle mix adjustment but the needle is very different - from the threaded portion you have a long smooth needle body section and a "fast" taper with a somewhat rounded needle tip - as opposed to mixture adjustment needles with a sharply pointed tip.

You must be very careful with them to remember to install the mixture adjustment screw while the carburetor is oriented in its operating position (float down) - if you do not, the metering rod can fall down into the idle mixing chamber and the end of the needle can bend it over (and damage the needle tip) - bent metering rod = no rattle = junk carburetor.

If you get one of those "rattlers" - get yourself a strong light so you can see down through the idle air adjust screw hole , turn the carb upside down and you'll see the metering rod fall down into view.

Air mixture adjustment means you turn the screw IN to enrich the mix and OUT to lean it out - opposite the usual adjustment procedure - because it is actually controlling the air flow into the metering chamber which has a fixed fuel delivery rate so make sure you were adjusting your "idle mixture" correctly It also means that your air inlets in the carburetor throat (air bleeds) need to be clear.

Thanks for the explanation! I have gotten in the habit of always putting in the mixture screws with the carb in the normal position, just to be safe, because I did read that tip here before. I did not know the difference between the air or fuel idle screws. That will help in the future.