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B&S Vanguard Question

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B&S Vanguard Question

Postby G Archer » Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:17 pm

Hi everyone, I have A B&S Vanguard 31 HP Model#543477 Type # 0114-E1 Code # 05070 on a Exmark zturn mower.I noticed a bad oil leak around the flywheel side of the engine and a slight knock.I can move the crankshaft up and down approx..010 to .015 thosands of an inch.I looked up parts list and it shows a plain bearing that can be replaced.Part # 843433 for $233.00.Why is this small bushing so expensive?Has anyone replaced one? Thanks for any help. Glenn
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Re: B&S Vanguard Question

Postby bgsengine » Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:47 pm

G Archer wrote:Hi everyone, I have A B&S Vanguard 31 HP Model#543477 Type # 0114-E1 Code # 05070 on a Exmark zturn mower.I noticed a bad oil leak around the flywheel side of the engine and a slight knock.I can move the crankshaft up and down approx..010 to .015 thosands of an inch.I looked up parts list and it shows a plain bearing that can be replaced.Part # 843433 for $233.00.Why is this small bushing so expensive?Has anyone replaced one? Thanks for any help. Glenn


as far as it being expensive, that is typical of Vanguard brand - everything about them is ridiculously expensive ($20 for a carburetor gasket?!) and it isn't a simple bushing - it is a precision fit "DU" Bearing..

It is not simple to replace them - the engine must be torn down completely and then you need special tools (counterbore reamer, bushing driver, and finish reamer) - alignment of the bushing is critical for proper lubrication (Oil Holes). It is not as simple as knocking out the old one and putting in a new one.. unlike with automotive engines...

By the time you get done with the tear down and reassembly (and may as well overhaul you'll need new rings, overhaul gasket set, oil seals) for the parts and labor costs you will have in it, might as well just buy a new engine with a 3 year warranty (for Vanguard) and have done with it.
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Re: B&S Vanguard Question

Postby G Archer » Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:57 pm

Thanks for the reply. What does the DU stand for? Thanks,Glenn
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Re: B&S Vanguard Question

Postby bgsengine » Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:41 pm

G Archer wrote:Thanks for the reply. What does the DU stand for? Thanks,Glenn
Dry Unlubricated - basically an engineered layer of metals - steel backing, bronze or other wear surface (the "babbit") and a PTFE (Teflon) layer - DU is actually a registered trademark of the company that originally engineered them - but many bearings of a similar construction are referred to as "DU" bearings. They can also be called "Oilite" bearings but that's usually a type that is all one metal instead of an engineered composite
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Re: B&S Vanguard Question

Postby KE4AVB » Tue Feb 16, 2016 8:43 am

bgsengine wrote:It is not simple to replace them - the engine must be torn down completely and then you need special tools (counterbore reamer, bushing driver, and finish reamer) - alignment of the bushing is critical for proper lubrication (Oil Holes). It is not as simple as knocking out the old one and putting in a new one.. unlike with automotive engines...

Must be looking at a different repair manual (272144) than I am as the one I have only indicates a bushing driver, a cylinder support, a punch and a press are the tools are needed; no mention of reamers. Of course an engine tear down is necessary.
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Re: B&S Vanguard Question

Postby bgsengine » Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:17 am

KE4AVB wrote:
bgsengine wrote:It is not simple to replace them - the engine must be torn down completely and then you need special tools (counterbore reamer, bushing driver, and finish reamer) - alignment of the bushing is critical for proper lubrication (Oil Holes). It is not as simple as knocking out the old one and putting in a new one.. unlike with automotive engines...

Must be looking at a different repair manual (272144) than I am as the one I have only indicates a bushing driver, a cylinder support, a punch and a press are the tools are needed; no mention of reamers. Of course an engine tear down is necessary.


Did not look at a manual and was going by past experience on non-vanguard - Of course if those bushings *already exist* in the engine, then yes you just need to drive them out and install them (properly aligned of course) - I was going based on the assumption that a bearing was not already installed from the factory - in which case the bore does need to be reamed out.
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