917.387430 Push Mower

[madmantrapper]

How do you remove the blade adapter from the engine shaft? Looks like it might be pressed on or could just be stuck. I didn't want to force it til I had some good advice so here I am.

Paul

[NO0C]

The owner's manual says it's keyed, so a BFH would probably be the best tool to use.

Probably rusty and needs some penetrating oil and persuasion. Many times they nearly fall off.

https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/pd_d ... 020133.pdf

Good luck.

[KE4AVB]

Why is it everyone want to use a BFH when you should be using a bearing separator and puller? You don't want to be flaring the crankshaft end if you can help it.

[NO0C]

Why is it everyone want to use a BFH when you should be using a bearing separator and puller? You don't want to be flaring the crankshaft end if you can help it.

I wouldn't be beating on the crankshaft, but tapping the adapter from the engine side and a BFH was not to be taken seriously/literally.

[bluemower]

do not hit with a hammer. Here is one idea.

1. remove the existing blade bolt.
2. install another bolt that is about 1 - 1 1/2 inch longer than the original bolt
3. use a two arm puller

[KE4AVB]

Why is it everyone want to use a BFH when you should be using a bearing separator and puller? You don't want to be flaring the crankshaft end if you can help it.

I wouldn't be beating on the crankshaft, but tapping the adapter from the engine side and a BFH was not to be taken seriously/literally.

Got to be careful when suggesting that BFH as some of our guests would actually try it.

You know those that half read the owners manual like the one "No need for oil changes." and they overlook the word "changes" and assume it means no oil needed. I just disassembly those users engine that I brought as a parts unit after the rod went through the side of the crankcase.

There is some engines that these adapters are so badly rusted on that they nearly need to be cut off and I have cut off a few with the Ace/Ox torch especially those Cub Cadet ZTR drive pulleys without damaging the crankshaft. That takes someone that knows their way around the Ace/Ox torch to do it; not just anybody can do it.

[bgsengine]

There is some engines that these adapters are so badly rusted on that they nearly need to be cut off and I have cut off a few with the Ace/Ox torch especially those Cub Cadet ZTR drive pulleys without damaging the crankshaft. That takes someone that knows their way around the Ace/Ox torch to do it; not just anybody can do it.

or in the case of these pressed metal adapters (not so much on the steel ones, but still do-able) - someone with a good set of drill bits and lots of patience can drill several holes in line the length of the adapter to either side and split the adapter with a cold chisel....

[Skywatcher]

Hi Madman

Here's what I do on these units. I have a few 3/8" NF grade 8 bolts that have a small countersunk hole drilled into the center of the head. Thread one of these bolts into the crankshaft so there is about ¾" of bolt shank showing below the adapter. Next, take a 2 jaw puller, set the end of the forcing screw into the center of the bolt and lock the 2 jaws onto the sides of the adapter (not the ends or you'll risk breaking them off). Turn the forcing screw in ensuring the puller stays straight and the adapter should come off.

If the adapter doesn't budge, try heating the round part with a butane or propane torch. Once the adapter is off, you'll often see rust scale on the crankshaft. Clean the crankshaft with emery tape then check it for trueness. When you're ready to put the machine back together, clean the inside of the blade adapter and apply anti seize compound to the drankshaft before reinstalling the adapter. Hope this helps and all the best,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

Sky's countersunk bolt is a good idea to use.

The bearing separator I posting about would be clamp around the crankshaft (loosely) and fully engage the adapter as you apply pressure from the puller as yes sometime heat is needed to get things moving. The separator also gives nearly a complete head shield that help protect the crankcase and oil seal. The separator also is very useful in removing bearing from spindle shafts where you can't get a puller on the bearing.

Here is a picture of what I use here. I have from it quite useful for other projects too.

[madmantrapper]

Thanks for the suggestions. I used a couple of pipe wrenches and turn it a bit and it came right off. Forgot to mention it was sheared.

Paul