cracked flywheel-bad torque wrench

[38racing]

I started a thread 'sometimes you get lucky' , well not this time. In that thread I mention an engine swap and testing my wound alternator. Everything there is ok I hope. Now I am putting the 10 amp alternator from the seized 31 series onto my friend's 28 series to replace his dual circuit. He's always having battery issues with the dual unit on his ariens with electric clutch. Spec on flywheel is 100 ft lbs but I set my wrench to 90. I felt like it would never click. So I backed down to 70 and got a click. then 80 and got click. Then 90 and after slight movement got the click.
After this I was rotating it and found spot that had rubbing noise. So I reset magneto. Sound still there. Removed magneto. Sound still there. Then I looked it over and saw the crack in the flywheel , parallel to the keyway. Any thoughts other than I need to get my torque wrench checked?

[bgsengine]

I started a thread 'sometimes you get lucky' , well not this time. In that thread I mention an engine swap and testing my wound alternator. Everything there is ok I hope. Now I am putting the 10 amp alternator from the seized 31 series onto my friend's 28 series to replace his dual circuit. He's always having battery issues with the dual unit on his ariens with electric clutch. Spec on flywheel is 100 ft lbs but I set my wrench to 90. I felt like it would never click. So I backed down to 70 and got a click. then 80 and got click. Then 90 and after slight movement got the click.
After this I was rotating it and found spot that had rubbing noise. So I reset magneto. Sound still there. Removed magneto. Sound still there. Then I looked it over and saw the crack in the flywheel , parallel to the keyway. Any thoughts other than I need to get my torque wrench checked?

A Torque wrench is kind of like canned food - When in Doubt, Throw It Out. Definitely get it checked, but I kind of doubt it would have caused your crack which might possibly have been there from the start? I'd pop the flywheel back off (you probably should anyway and replace it) and check the crank for any high spots or other factors that might distort the flywheel.

[KE4AVB]

Yelp torque wrenches do go bad. Threw away one back in the Spring that way out calibration and I couldn't even recalibrate it. Simple enough to check the calibration though. Take a weight that about mid range of you torque wrench to test. Something like 40 lbs for 80 ft lbs clicker. set the clicker at 40 ft lbs. Find solid mounted vise and clamp the square drive. Now slowly hang the 40 lbs weight at 12" from the pivot point. It should click once the full 40 lb is hanged. If not you try changing the settings until it does. This would be the 40 ft lb setting. This just how far off the wrench is.

The bad wrench I had wouldn't even click with 80 lbs on it with the wrench set at 10 ft lbs.

[RoyM]

What torque wrench are you using? Those Princess Auto deflecting beam cheapies aren't worth the powder to blow them.

[KE4AVB]

With you saying torque spec being 100 ft-lbs I assuming you're working on the OHV 280000 series and not L-head which specs at 85 ft-lbs.

A note on the OHV version on my engine spec chart has this:

Prior to Datecode 120701*******
Increase torque to 110 ft lbs use steel key PN 796335.

After Date code 120630******* 100ft-lbs use aluminum key.

Flywheel and crankshaft redesigned after 120630 and not interchangeable.

[38racing]

With you saying torque spec being 100 ft-lbs I assuming you're working on the OHV 280000 series and not L-head which specs at 85 ft-lbs.

A note on the OHV version on my engine spec chart has this:

Prior to Datecode 120701*******
Increase torque to 110 ft lbs use steel key PN 796335.

After Date code 120630******* 100ft-lbs use aluminum key.

Flywheel and crankshaft redesigned after 120630 and not interchangeable.

28 series OHV. about chance it was already cracked the key was slightly sheared.
and checking for a flywheel I found the 31 series changed on a 12..... code date. it went from straight cut to angle cut key. you can't buy the 31 flywheel before 12.... you have to buy flywheel and crankshaft kit. funny too that kit is $20 cheaper than a flywheel for a 28 series.

[38racing]

i have 2 replacements but Briggs can be confusing. ipls for replacements and original show same flywheel number and says steel gear. they have aluminum gear only available to serve plastic gear. my original had aluminum gear. one replacement has plastic gear. the other one has aluminum but it is a replacement kit as it has bolts not rivets. going to use the aluminum as plastic has a couple not perfect teeth.

[38racing]

What torque wrench are you using? Those Princess Auto deflecting beam cheapies aren't worth the powder to blow them.

it's click style. going compare with son in law. his is hardly been used.

[KE4AVB]

You will also find the 330000 were change too per APSI 89 Dated Feb 2013. Copy available in the download section under Briggs Advance Info.

38, Here is a couple images that should make you feel a little better as it could be this bad. Personally I only had a couple bad flywheels one on a 280000 series L-head and the one the customer done below. Both were results of customers using an impact wrench.

[KE4AVB]

What torque wrench are you using? Those Princess Auto deflecting beam cheapies aren't worth the powder to blow them.

I still got one of the beam types but is so so much easier to use a left or right hand clicker when using it sideways and can't view the scales besides I don't see too good up close with my glasses and can't even see the beam pointer without the glasses. I have had very bad eyesight all my life. I can't even see those big Coke Cola signs on the vending machines without my glasses unless I am a foot or two away.