briggs 775 ex

[KE4AVB]

Check the thermo choke system.

[38racing]

Check the thermo choke system.

will do. I know that on the older 12 series people have messed up the link but this unit has it on opposite side so may be different and he's had problems almost since day one so no one should have touched the choke.

[38racing]

I was going by it on my way out this morning. I tried starting normally. Nothing. I sprayed outside of air filter . It started and continued to run but it was definitely running rich ,even after I closed fuel valve. I didn't run real long as had no time. So when I had time I pulled the cover. The auto choke seems ok. Choke is closed. The tension tab for the air vane pull off is a bit forward so there's a fair tension there. But then I decided to drop the carb bowl. The picture is below. It's got that same white gel it had the first time. Back then I never got tank removed for a proper flush. It is me wondering what he's using for fuel. I expect that I had filled it last time. I've never found that gel in any of my carbs.
http://web.ncf.ca/da229/smallengine/Dale-carb

[38racing]

So I hadn't really looked at bowl nut/jet when I removed the bowl. It's plugged again as is the air bleed. Kind of puzzled why it ran rich. Really shouldn't have run at all unless it was getting fuel due to flooding bowl. Carb is in the USC now. I could tell in removing carb that I did not remove it the first time way back. Just cleaned bowl and jet. Also found all the mounting bolts for the tank so I removed it and will flush.
As for choke system it seems ok assuming that heated coil works. I noticed on this one the air vane only pulls choke partially open. The muffler coil has to open it the rest of the way. On the 12 series I worked on the coil pulled it shut but air vane was able to fully hold it open.

[38racing]

Just found that the heater on my USC has gone south.

[38racing]

Flushing tank tonight. There was flow out with cap tight but removing it definitely had better flow. Flow changed as I opened and closed it. Not sure how it vents since there's an oring on the cap. In plastic I see a groove from outer edge going to a small hole. Under hole I see what looks like wire mesh. But this hole is above oring. Anyone know how these caps vent. 111p02-0011 f1.
Update question. On ipl it has 972 which is tank and includes 957 the cap. Separately it shows a 957c cap. Looking up 957 it looks like his with oring. Looking up 957c it looks to screw in the same but can't see any oring. My aftermarket supplier has the 957c but not the 957.

[38racing]

All cleaned up. Starts first pull.

[38racing]

And back in my yard yesterday. Don't know why yet. I started it. Took 2 pulls to stay running. Let sit running for 15 minutes and then cut my grass for 10 minutes with no issue.

[38racing]

Still have not spoke to my neighbour but I have successfully started it several times. One thing I was puzzled by was the gas cap. When I was draining tank fuel was running out at reasonable speed I thought but flow did increase a lot if I removed cap. The cap has an oring that seals against neck. I see a small channel in lip of cap. I'm not sure how it's designed to vent. I posted on a YouTube on gas cap venting and tuber suggested what I was seeing was normal. Any thoughts?

[bgsengine]

Still have not spoke to my neighbour but I have successfully started it several times. One thing I was puzzled by was the gas cap. When I was draining tank fuel was running out at reasonable speed I thought but flow did increase a lot if I removed cap. The cap has an oring that seals against neck. I see a small channel in lip of cap. I'm not sure how it's designed to vent. I posted on a YouTube on gas cap venting and tuber suggested what I was seeing was normal. Any thoughts?

Much like any emissions compliant cap, they have to be vented just enough to prevent vapor lock of the fuel system, but they cannot allow any vapors *out* , so by that nature there must be a check valve in the tank vent that will obviously restrict the flow rate of incoming air, but they are designed to allow enough fuel flow to meet the needs of the engine's fuel usage rate. However if the engine happened to be running rich extensively (perhaps mowing heavy grass and lugging the engine) it might be plausible that the flow rate is insufficient to meet that demand for power.... Might also look into replacing fuel cap if it continues to have a problem, but if unless you can actually get the problem to occur (assuming it is a stalling-out issue? - you really gotta get detail from the owner, I suppose), you'd basically be "shotgunning" things - first thing is to identify the issue and under what circumstances it happens (as I mentioned, perhaps under heavy load?) and see if you can duplicate them.. it may be a normal result in which case the owner would have to be re-educated on proper use of the equipment within its design limits, otherwise they need something bigger and more robust.