upgraded charging fuse?

[KE4AVB]

Yes might need a new solenoid as the draggy starter motor will pull excess current and burn the contacts inside the solenoid.

Now this voltage you are seeing is that with the meter leads on the positive battery post and the point being tested or just across the two large posts. If just across the two large posts then it does shows some burning of the internal copper contacts in the solenoid.

[38racing]

From battery post to test point. I will have to recheck at output of solenoid. Wonder how much that could be from drop on the small post or as you say bad points now inside it. Wondering why additional drop at starter since cable is new and tight. Even filed at starter end.

[KE4AVB]

Okay then to find to source of the drop work your way back along the solenoid trigger line checking outputs and inputs of each switch. There a point you get nearly a zero reading as you back pass the bad point.

Note that on a 5 ft run of 18ga you will have a resistance .032 Ω and on a 10 ft run it is .064 Ω and voltage drop on these runs will depend on the amperage going thru the wire. Say it is a 10ft with 3 amps then it is a 0.19 volt drop across the run just from the wire alone. Every contact will also have a slight resistance too. This doesn't come in play much at DC but in RF ranges that I transmit on I can lose a 1/2 of the output per connector pair or 3 dB and I go above the HF bands it gets even worst as the coaxial cable has attenuation which varies cable design and length.

Now if your battery cable is 5 ft long and is a 8 ga cable with 80amps going through it there would be a voltage drop .24 volts as the cable resistance is .003 Ω

As you see the voltage drop can build up just depending wires and connection points are involved between the two test points.

[38racing]

Okay then to find to source of the drop work your way back along the solenoid trigger line checking outputs and inputs of each switch. There a point you get nearly a zero reading as you back pass the bad point.

Note that on a 5 ft run of 18ga you will have a resistance .032 Ω and on a 10 ft run it is .064 Ω and voltage drop on these runs will depend on the amperage going thru the wire. Say it is a 10ft with 3 amps then it is a 0.19 volt drop across the run just from the wire alone. Every contact will also have a slight resistance too. This doesn't come in play much at DC but in RF ranges that I transmit on I can lose a 1/2 of the output per connector pair or 3 dB and I go above the HF bands it gets even worst as the coaxial cable has attenuation which varies cable design and length.

Now if your battery cable is 5 ft long and is a 8 ga cable with 80amps going through it there would be a voltage drop .24 volts as the cable resistance is .003 Ω

As you see the voltage drop can build up just depending wires and connection points are involved between the two test points.

I can probably do this at least on the 2 switching connections on the keyswitch.

Interesting since Mtd manual says above .1 drop is a problem even at starter lug. Their example of .538 there is said to be a major problem. I can shorten the cable from solenoid to starter. Sort of stalled now as grandchildren are visiting.

[38racing]

New switch and solenoid in. No voltage drop from b to a now. New switch was same but not labelled as per ariens manual. Even one i removed wasn't. This unit has an idiot light setup for low voltage etc. Not sure it's wired right. Pto light on/off doesn't match the manual. I'm thinking of throwing on an ammeter from old mtd sears. It's the one with the battery wire just passing through. I assume I need to pass wire in correct direction? I've seen some where the wire is looped but on this sears it just went straight through.

[38racing]

found this old thread. slow cranking was ulimately solved by replacing starter. upper bushing worn. likely binding or losing torque