blade brake pads

[38racing]

why so pricey? I have a 700 series mtd and there is no separate part number for just the pads . on left it's riveted to the pto engagement lever and on right to a bracket. right side with bracket is $30 usd. even the older style spring metal piece with pad are $10 cdn. i could drill out rivets to use pad. likely need a spacer as 700 is thicker. anyone have source for just pad material?

[bgsengine]

why so pricey?

Generally, liability. Parts like this being safety related (Gov't regulations, etc) can come back on the OEM in a failure situation - cost of insurance risk is usually factored in to the part cost. You can thank the ambulance chasers for that one. Same goes for many emissions components, as well- by jacking up the cost of a part, aftermarket suppliers of non-oem parts (and those that install them) can hold the bag if it comes to a legal action.

[KE4AVB]

And what worst those assemblies probably won't even line up properly or at the last ones I installed didn't. MTD knows about the problem but won't do anything about it the last I heard.

I do have a source the pad material but come a 7-1/2" x 7-1/2", 15" x 15" and 30" x 30" sheets. available in various thicknesses and from low fiction to high friction. Limited to 5000 ft per min speed except for the low fiction which limited to 4500 ft per min. Be aware also is the type metal rivets used (large heads). Most likely available through the same source.

I'll drop you a PM with the vendors site address.

[Arkie]

Just general idea:
After I seen the price for replacements and some new replacements won't work properly without shimming or drilling new mounting holes. (lots of aggravating wasted time for new MTD parts that don't fit per MTD's part numbers.
I made several of the MTD type in spare time as a winter project. MTD type, made several at same time. One flat auto disc brake pad would make about 4 of the MTD type.
Had some automotive disc brake pads. some were new and some were used but still had lots of pad. I now save the old used disc pads that can be used for such in a save bucket. (labeled MTD brake parts)
I cut the pads to size with the metal backing. (metal chop saw) Wear a good respirator and rubber gloves.

Can drill and tap. I used 8-32 or 10-32 brass screws to secure to the old MTD brackets. Countersink pad to the metal backing for the brass screws.

I also found out that most generally what shortens the life or wears out the blade brake pads is someone installs NON OEM blade belt that is too short.

[38racing]

Just general idea:
After I seen the price for replacements and some new replacements won't work properly without shimming or drilling new mounting holes. (lots of aggravating wasted time for new MTD parts that don't fit per MTD's part numbers.
I made several of the MTD type in spare time as a winter project. MTD type, made several at same time. One flat auto disc brake pad would make about 4 of the MTD type.
Had some automotive disc brake pads. some were new and some were used but still had lots of pad. I now save the old used disc pads that can be used for such in a save bucket. (labeled MTD brake parts)
I cut the pads to size with the metal backing. (metal chop saw) Wear a good respirator and rubber gloves.

Can drill and tap. I used 8-32 or 10-32 brass screws to secure to the old MTD brackets. Countersink pad to the metal backing for the brass screws.

I also found out that most generally what shortens the life or wears out the blade brake pads is someone installs NON OEM blade belt that is too short.

Funny , just before I read this post I thought of auto brake pads. And I recently had a seized caliper on my car and replaced pads on one side only. Now just to find where other side pads are. My garage should have returned them as I recall seeing the old caliper .

[KE4AVB]

Funny 38Racing here they charge a hefty core charge for calipers and since I do my own work they do get returned for core fee refund.

I have tried the brake pads from disc brakes but does takes a lot time getting the shape right. Try to avoid the semi-metalic version as they will wear the pulleys heavily. Also as said wear a mask and eye protection when grinding these. Don't need to be inhaling the dust or getting something in your eyes. Now of course all I got is a die grinder.

I think that sheet material I referred will take a lot less time cutting and shaping.

[38racing]

just checking the deck now. they feel like heavy rubber pad, not the harder steel.

[KE4AVB]

If they are anything like the ones on the 13AM762F765 here they medium fiction material. 1/2" H x 25/32" W x 1-9/16" L . Of course they have bevels along the length to match the pulley V and two countsunk through holes. They appear to be mounted with 3/16 large head pop rivets.

[38racing]

If they are anything like the ones on the 13AM762F765 here they medium fiction material. 1/2" H x 25/32" W x 1-9/16" L . Of course they have bevels along the length to match the pulley V and two countsunk through holes. They appear to be mounted with 3/16 large head pop rivets.

mine is 13a2761 so should be the same. i was thinking they felt much like the hard rubber from axle blocks I removed from my s10 pickup which might be on a shelf in the garage

[38racing]

for the pads on the metal arms that press on top of deck pulley I did just make a pair. for first one I cut to size before drilling and ended up drilling countersink hole for bolt head close to pad edge and it cracked. for second one I drilled first and then did the cutting.
forgot to say made from used car disc pad