adjusting brakes

[Ron]

Troybilt mn 13WX79KT011 sn 1E191B70043
I'm told no brakes. Haven't got it in yet, coming tomorrow, just doing research. It has a hydrostatic transmission 918-04892. I can't find an IPL for that transmission and I think the brakes are internal. How do I go about adjusting them or whatever is needed?

[hanz63]

I would think that t/a will have external brakes with the nut in the center of the arm to tighten. Likely it is a castle nut that you will need to pull the pin.

[KE4AVB]

Brake [Parking Brake] external. Simple 9/16" wrench adjustment.

On the left side in front of the axle is the brake caliper assembly. You must remove the cotter pin in order to be able to turn the castle nut. It only takes 1/4 to 1/2 turn normally to get the brake working again if it is only wear of the brake pads. Otherwise it could binding activator pins or link problems. Remember to put the cotter pin back in when through adjusting.

[Ron]

Thanks, I'm pretty sure this isn't the typical brake setup like you both are referring to, I'll know a little more tomorrow.

[38racing]

In this 700 series repair manual it looks much like what as been posted. It's available here. 12MB
http://web.ncf.ca/da229/smallengine/700 ... Manual.pdf
hydro brake on page 83 of pdf (77 of the manual)

[KE4AVB]

Thanks, I'm pretty sure this isn't the typical brake setup like you both are referring to, I'll know a little more tomorrow.

Ron I personally verified that the T2 hydro was setup as I posted before I posted the info by physically looking at the 13BX79KT011 Horse mower that has the same transaxle (verified by checking the two model mower IPLs that they use the same). It is a dry brake setup and not a wet brake setup even though the hydro unit itself does most of the braking action through hydraulic resistance.

In this 700 series repair manual it looks much like what as been posted.

Except the brake is on the left side instead of the right side that many of us are familiar with.

Now with it being a T2 here is the brake adjustment procedure from Hydro Gear even though what I posted is easier as you just tighten where the brake holds and releases.
1. Remove the brake arm bias spring, and then the cotter pin securing the brake castle nut.
2. Insert a 0.020” feeler gauge between the brake rotor and top brake puck, and then set the brake by finger tightening or loosening the castle nut.
3. Install a new cotter pin to secure the castle nut, and then install the brake arm bias spring.

[bgsengine]

also, you may find it necessary to completely remove the brake actuator and possibly brake disc (rotor) and clean up rust and corrosion.. might wanna do so any way if things seem tight, and apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound on the brake actuating pins and on the brake shaft and rotor hub (just a very thin smear is plenty enough, don't want anything dripping over brake pads and rotor)

[KE4AVB]

If needed those brake dowel pin holes are to be reamed @ 5/16" since the pins are .312" to clean them up. These dowel pin are basically the same pins as the Tecumseh/Peerless dowel pins except they are .020" shorter which can easily adjusted for the difference. MTD pins are pricey when compared to the Husqvarna pins and Hydro Gear pin are lowest cost ones as they are the supplier of the pins to both of the fore-mention OEMs.

Also if you need the service manual for the T2 it is in the downloads under Hydrogear directory

[Ron]

Thanks for all the expert replies. Sorry I didn’t get back to this sooner, but I found the rotor splines are stripped out. Shaft splines out of transaxle look ok. Called Ken at Hydrogear to get the part number and he was surprised that the rotor was stripped. He asked if the owner was using it as a brake instead of its intended purpose as a parking brake. I did notice that he has a sleeve hitch attached to the back that he pulls around a small trailer. I really don’t understand how that would effect the rotor because when you push on the brake pedal it centers the forward/reverse lever. Rotor on order.

[KE4AVB]

Well kinda it is a regular brake base on how it is set up. Most customers are going to depress the clutch/pedal stop instead of pulling the transaxle lever to neutral.

That rotor splines may have not been done as well as it should have done. Basically it is inside knurling and I have seen them overly loose. They are meant to a little loose so the rotor will self center. Now heavy trailer and operator loads can put a strain on these but have yet to see worn to the slipping point even I have replaced a few of them on manual transmissions while I was repairing the brake calipers.

I did once many years ago snap a shaft hitting the brake just before I went over an embankment on an old Craftsman Peerless transmission. Needless to say the mower didn't stop nor moved again until I replaced the shaft.