possible burnt zero turn resurrection

[38racing]

so now with a running engine I mounted a gas tank. I filled both hydro drives. I drilled holes in the chassis above the fill plugs for better access to check fluid. All mounted I proceeded with the air purge. Fire side hydro turns fine. After the purge I removed the plugs and checked oil. None fire side looks good. Fire side oil did not look like oil should. It was grayish so I assume it picked up remaining water that didn't drain. So I took units off and drained that side. Oil was a grayish green. I've refilled and re-purged and the colour is better. Going to re-check tomorrow. Will likely leave the current oil in and proceed to next step. I need to fab something to replace the right side panel that went around the motion lever. Luckily have left side as a pattern.

[38racing]

Well the console got built. I have now completed the wiring according to the schematic that I drew up. All safety features tested with my multi-meter. Only a couple things about it. I had most of the left side harness including luckily the brake switch. There is a circuit from solenoid kill tab through the brake switch to the seat switch. Wire is yel from solenoid to brake , then yel/blk to the seat switch. Off seat and no brake applied will ground. But on the yel/blk ,between brake and seat there is a spliced yel/blk that's now cut so I assume it went to burnt right side but I can't figure out where or why. There is a separate circuit for the PTO/seat safety. There is no such spliced wire on other MTDs I've looked at. Other thing is the reverse safety. Each motion lever has a NC plunger switch wired in parallel in the circuit from key run to PTO switch to PTO electric clutch. When not in reverse current to clutch is split over the reverse switches. If one lever only is put in reverse then full current goes through the other and clutch stays on. If both levers go into reverse then no current flows and clutch stops. (of course I found the unburned left side had been bypassed). I was just wondering about the capacity of these plunger switches to be carrying current continuously. In applications like starting they only do it momentary or in many cases just ground the magneto. I realize that I could add the relay like is done for cranking system. Funny thing about this is that my initial testing failed on this circuit. It turned out that the bypassed left switch was toast, open in both plunger positions.

[38racing]

Took it for a run around the yard. Now I need an engine. I may have parts to rebuild her tecumseh. I guess I would need to pull the sump and see if plastic oil pump gear got melted.

[38racing]

So I've been working on the engine. I've just been able to fire it up but I have an issue. It's missing and puffing blue out one or the other carb. It's inconsistent. It will run fine sometimes, then the puffs. I will try to upload a video.
Here are some things that might be relevant.
As far as I know it was running fine before the fire. She had cut lawn and fire started just after she parked it.
It's a tecumseh V twin but I don't know the model number. Could be a ov691,tvt691 and , but not likely, a vtx691.
I have a donor engine that is vtx691. It has different rocker arm design and I think maybe the shrouding was different.
I did not remove the flywheel. I loosened nut and re-torqued to spec of 58 ft lb
I did not remove the heads but I did check/set valves. I just checked manual again and it says to set at TDC. I may have set likes briggs and went 1/4 down after tdc. also the manual I'm looking at now says to torque using crow's foot but iirc I didn't think I could get crow's foot on so I only tightened by guess.
I put in new e3 plugs I picked up at a clearance sale that match spec plug number. I may have the champion or ngk version available.
The carbs are from the vtx and have gone through the USC and new o rings and needle/seat.
Carbs have antibackfire solenoids.
I synchronized carbs as per manual.
I think there is excessive play in the throttle shaft upper holes on both carbs. Nowhere can I find anything about fixing that.
Geez, I'm thick. I have the top halves of the original carbs and I do not recall if I checked their throttle shaft play. If less play I could USC them and put all the bottom stuff on them.
Besides redoing the carbs, any thoughts on another cause?

[38racing]

here's the video. Although in this run it's always the right carb I have other runs where both carbs may do it.
http://web.ncf.ca/da229/smallengine/20181219_144804.mp4

[StarTech]

Throttle shaft are fairly straight forward to fix for machinist, just got to get the pivot line straight. Ream to oversize and install brass bushings with inference fit then finish ream for throttle shaft freedom of movement. It is just like doing the Briggs valve guides except on a smaller scale. Single barrel a lot easier than twin barrels. AVB did one for me that was a twin barrel on a $300 Kawasaki carburetor.

[38racing]

Just checked original carbs. No play. The foam piece is gone of course. Is that just to keep dirt away?

[KE4AVB]

Come on Folks I can't believe that I am the only one that knows the answer but that could explain why I can't answers to my own problem posts. This why I will no longer ask for help with my problems.

The foam seals are exactly what they are dust seals. They are made of open cell foam and can be easily made in house as I do here out of donor air filter foam elements. I see no reason to be paying up to $5 for one when it only a few cents to make in house. Many times all I need on a carburetor cleaning is the fuel bowl seals and these dust seals.

[bgsengine]

Come on Folks I can't believe that I am the only one that knows the answer but that could explain why I can't answers to my own problem posts. This why I will no longer ask for help with my problems.

.

Well,first it's a Tecumseh and I have only ever seen a couple of these V-Twins.. and good riddance I say.. Second, the question is kind of wordy and really not entirely clear.. blue smoke would tend to mean oil burning ,and a puff out the intake randomly would tend to make one think a valve seat is loose.. and if it happens randomly both sides, then likely both seats loose, probably had an overheat at one time, either case would generally mean popping the heads off and inspect the seats and valves, cause a random loose seat can pass a leakdown test, unless it happens by chance to be "off" at the time. Would be my take on it.

[KE4AVB]

I just trying to get others beside You (BGS) and me to help answer and if nothing ask few questions to help narrow the problems.

And yes it is unknown Tecumseh v-twin spec wise but we should still able to figure out what is wrong if nothing as a good training discussion. 38 might end up having to do a complete tear down and inspection. It could be like the TEC OHV60 that I recently battled and lost as everytime I fix one thing another one show up until it got down to a badly worn cylinder (.020 over wear). It should near passed the leak down test but it did on the initial tests.

Besides I am leaving at the end of the month to deal my health problems. I got to find out why I hurting all the time now. I feel fair good today and was able to pickup my impact gun without nearly dropping it because the stabbing pain.