Cub LT1042 Steering Shaft Replacement

[KE4AVB]

Boy it takes a while to change these out. Actually took me 3-1/2 hours and I thought was going to be simple. Apparently it was not. The biggest pain of all was that seat spring removal and re-installation. I got to come up with something to do this easier. The rest was just time consuming all that had to be removed to get it out and then of course the re-assembly.

At least I know what in involved and will charge a lot more to do it next time. Why they use an all steel setup is beyond me as I would have thought the hex bushing would been bronze like other MTDs. The all steel setup is why I had to tear it down as it was rusted solid.

Maybe I can get this mower out next week after I change the drive belt and fuel it. I done replace the rusted solid starter, rebuilt the carburetor and install an new ignition coil.

[38racing]

Is that the seat spring for safety switch with 2 spring metal contacts. For it I loop a piece of aircraft wire to reach rear fender. Then I use long screw driver or pry bar and lever it on the fender. Great fun is to try and mount seat with shoulder bolts with spring already attached. I may have actually done that once. Was shaft attached with the star head bolt?

[KE4AVB]

At the steering sector gear end held by a washer, pinion gear, and locking nut. Steering shaft has a flange on it that is too big to go through the hex bushing hole.

I haven't seen any with the Trox setup yet just the loctite in Phillips screw. Already done a couple them lately too where the bushing wore out and stripped the pinion on the steering shaft.

[38racing]

Philips screw was what i meant. I always use a hand impact as regular bit seems to slip. Why couldn't they use a hex bolt

[bgsengine]

Hmm I seem to recall taking the steering shaft out down through the bottom of the tractor.. after you get that stupid #3 (or is it #4?) phillips screw out , and pull the steering shaft up far enough to pop out the flange bushing, then run the shaft (sans steering wheel) *down* through the tractor (front end jacked up way high) its been a long while (2 years plus) since Ive had one of those but definitely recall the steering shaft coming down the bottom of tractor, don't think I removed fenders or dash panel at all..

[KE4AVB]

Brian, It isn't that I did not tried it is simply too big for that hex hole. It probably why they sent over three 8-1/2 x 11 pages of instructions. Here is a picture shaft and hex bearing. If you look closely at item 2 you will see the bushing above the hex is larger; also the flange on the shaft matches this bushing outside diameter. That spline area on the steering shaft is where the pinion gear goes on. Not in the photo is the washer that goes on between the pinion and the hex bushing end. The center is just large enough to slip over the splines but the shaft's normal OD. Now the washer OD is also larger than the hex hole so the pinion does not slip up through the hex if you pull up on the shaft while it is on the shaft.

[KE4AVB]

Philips screw was what i meant. I always use a hand impact as regular bit seems to slip. Why couldn't they use a hex bolt

Probably because the drive belt rubs in this area and the sharp edges might damage the drive belt or the corners of the hex just get worn off.

[bgsengine]

ueah the flange OD is larger than the hex .. Im thinking I pulled the shaft off to one side to fit down one of the larger holes inn the frame , however your shaft photo up there is a completely different configuration than any of the 3 I have seen to date - looks more like the top end of the shaft on some tractors = where steering wheel fits on it .. (maybe an MTD ENgineer didnt know when end was up? LOL!)

[38racing]

Older ones I've done the gear and shaft are one part. Shaft below gear goes into hex bushing.

[KE4AVB]

Older ones I've done the gear and shaft are one part. Shaft below gear goes into hex bushing.

Just wondering is the 2006 considered an older MTD model?

And those that you're mentioning the gear teeth are also slanted on the last Troybilt I changed out. They do come out through the top of the operator station with you just having to remove the steering collar and top bushing but MTD did make the hole there large enough to slip the gear through.

But on this Cub the side on the operator station facing the operator is all plastic screwed to a metal skeleton. The steering top bushing is integrated into the operator panel. You can't access the screws at the bottom as footrests are covering 4 screws, the fender panel is covering two more screws. The operator forward and reverse foot control get removed too. There is also a center bushing bracket on the battery pan needs unscrewing and the battery pan removed. Just before you pull the operator panel you got to unplug all the wiring connectors.

If I get time later I scan those instructions into a pdf and post them with MTD stuff have in the MTD service manuals just in case someone gets the parts and no instructions.