Craftsman 917.289244 tractor starting issue...

[KE4AVB]

Also, as you said KE4AVB, the tractor starts now but, it takes a while to shut off...might have to look into this a bit closer...

Well I getting a little but now at least I decided to stop holding my breathe.
Now that black wire that is grounding with the switch off goes to the kill tab on the ignition coil.

[dart451]

Also, as you said KE4AVB, the tractor starts now but, it takes a while to shut off...might have to look into this a bit closer...

Well I getting a little but now at least I decided to stop holding my breathe.
Now that black wire that is grounding with the switch off goes to the kill tab on the ignition coil.

True! So what's keeping it from starting? It was working before...seems like perhaps the switch seeing as it only looses the ground in start mode... If I also connect that original black wire, it won't work because I have a hard ground already attached, right?

[dart451]

got the Nikki carburetor apart and you could see the O-ring was shot! I do hate these carbs! Anyway, I bought some gasket/O-rings awhile back and it appears that the O-ring in the kit is the wrong size! KE4AVB, where do you get your gasket kits for Nikki carbs? I checked Jack's and the diagram for this motor shows the main gasket and O-ring separate! You can get them together if you order the fuel transfer tube, 698780 to the tune of $29.75...

[KE4AVB]

What is engine model and type number? There is two different version of these fuel bowl gaskets. Also while in there is the main jet with the tiny o-ring loose if so that o-ring needs replacing too but the o-ring itself is not available through Briggs as they sell the complete jet assembly.

As far as to where I get these I get them through one of my distributors though Jacks would have them at list.

[dart451]

You know, when I opened it up, there was just the the large intricate gasket and the small round o-ring, the one that usually causes the leakage. I did not see another o-ring on either side. Here's the engine number, 331877-1371-B1
ser. 100811ZD. I did decide to order the complete carb for $21.00, seemed a better option that fixing the existing one... Funny how they keep making throw away parts anymore...cheaper to buy new than fix...

[KE4AVB]

Just someone else supporting the Chinese clone industry where it might work or might not correctly. The 591736 sold by Briggs retails for $106.25 with dealer cost between $85 - $95 depending on our discount [mine is 20%]. Just remember if you install it your on the hook if it fails while your warranty. That is if you even give a 30-90 repair warranty that covers parts installed. Here I give a 30 day warranty and cover any part that I install during this period plus my labor. If the customer buys and brings in the clone I will not guarantee it to be right when the equipment leaves; it is their problem if they want to pay me again to replace it.

So far of the 10 clone carburetors 9 failed and one had to be modified to it to work correctly so I gave up on being conned by these manufactures. It like all the aftermarket belts that I had nothing but trouble with. Just last June I threw out nearly a $1000 in aftermarket belts because they all were too short for the intended applications.

I prefer repairing the original carburetors whenever possible and the Nikki carbs are not that hard to repair either. $4.50 for the 698781 plus 30 minutes in the UC doesn't cost $21.00 but it is your decision. As said I did three of these carbs this last week plus a twin barrel. Even used three $0.61 o-rings for the $12 apiece jets. Yes I know where to get them and I still got 17 of the 100 I brought last Spring.

Just a side note some the carburetor kit for the single barrel Nikki carburetors from Briggs do contain the wrong fuel bowl gaskets.

[dart451]

Would have loved just ordering gaskets but they seem to make it more difficult for the little guy to make it. (Would have been nice to find both gaskets needed without getting items I don't need) I live in a very remote area, population about 300 and I know the people will just go out a buy a new one after a few years if the repair bill gets anywhere substantial. Ya, they will! So I get by with pretty low mechanic fees. I'm retired and don't need the money...just like to keep my hand in it...

[38racing]

I was trying to get the nikki from a 21 series to stop running lean. I bought an aftermarket kit for 10$ cdn. Problem was the transfer piece wouldn't fit over emulsion tube. And new transfer piece and float and needle had float way down from horizontal. I decided to buy clone carb but just before putting it on I tried one more cleaning of the idle circuit of the old carb. I used new needle and old transfer piece and old float( I had heated and bent it to be horizontal previously). So far it's running fine on test bench.

[KE4AVB]

Would have loved just ordering gaskets but they seem to make it more difficult for the little guy to make it. (Would have been nice to find both gaskets needed without getting items I don't need) I live in a very remote area, population about 300 and I know the people will just go out a buy a new one after a few years if the repair bill gets anywhere substantial. Ya, they will! So I get by with pretty low mechanic fees. I'm retired and don't need the money...just like to keep my hand in it...

It does take a lot of research to find decent vendors. Google has been good to me.

Just can't buy from the local shops here as they were intently over charging and giving bad advice. It has taken me 10 years to get the level that I am now at. I only had a Briggs distributor until last year when TEW shutdown causing me several months of addition expense on parts. You be surprised how many times Amazon can provide parts at a cost below even the distributors; just got to be careful though as some claims parts to be OEM parts when in fact they are selling aftermarket parts. Matter of fact I ordering a couple Carlisle tires Monday that are nearly $20 less apiece and they even include shipping where my distributor wants extra for the shipping. I will be selling them for the same price as the distributor's Chinese tires list price.

As for your fees don't sell yourself short. My brother wanted to do repairs for $10 per hour and lost his shirt tail the first year [over $6000] then he throw his hands up and I got struck competing repairs that he already got paid for as legally I was on the hook as the business was legally in my name. I raise the labor rate to a reasonable amount. Yes I initially lost customers but most have came back now as several of my competitors have also gone under due to poor workmanship. You have to do quality work and you do deserve fair compensation.

Customers will take advantage of you if you let them. I even had a few to try sneaking in equipment saying I didn't fix it right. Sorry I do keep records of my work and the serial numbers.

There also those that will make partial payments for a repair and never finish paying. I got one that just finish paying his previous repair bill after 18 months and I got his mower in the shop now and it will not leave until fully paid this time. It is a policy I put in place because of him and several other deadbeats. I simply don't like being lied to by the customers or the vendors.

[dart451]

Wow! I was partially devastated when TEW went out of business...I ordered almost all my parts there. And you are right, it's really hard to find decent parts at a decent price. Sometimes it's a crap shoot! I charge $35.00 an hour so I may be low but I also have a moto that I tell people, "If I can't fix it, you owe me nothing". Yes, occasionally I lose my ass but then again I don't spend a lot of time when I find a problem I cannot solve! This forum is my Savior more times than not! If I've learned anything KE4AVB, I've learned that once I think I have it all figured out, I DON'T! I rarely if ever get anything back that I have fixed that has failed...it's usually something else I didn't fix that went bad. And I never get any low ballers...if anything, my customers seem to tell me I don't charge enough! But, I get repeat customers over and over. I also get customers that bring me stuff that I fix it 5 minutes and I don't charge them. I tell them bring it back when It needs some real work. To me this solidifies my customer base. like I said, I live in a very remote area and only service 4 cycle machines in my area. The main city is 35 miles away and I do not service that area. There are literally no small engine mechanics except for perhaps Ace Hardware and one other in the city and I would be swamped if I accepted work from them. I like it at a slow pace...will be 70 this year...