Troybuilt Drive Belt

[lefty]

Model: 13AJ609G766
Serial: 1D275H20163 000003

I was going to replace the drive belt that leads from the engine to the trans on this one. I watched a couple of videos and they were saying that the drive pulley needs to be removed. Is this true?

[bgsengine]

Model: 13AJ609G766
Serial: 1D275H20163 000003

I was going to replace the drive belt that leads from the engine to the trans on this one. I watched a couple of videos and they were saying that the drive pulley needs to be removed. Is this true?

Generally yes - However, if the pulley won't come loose from engine crank, you can still achieve the change without removal by removing the engine mounting bolts and shift engine rearward (gives room for belt to clear belt keeper tabs that are formed right into the tractor frame)

Basically if it is Electric clutch PTO you gotta drop clutch anyways , or if manual PTO , pulley would need to come off - if the pulley won't slide off, plan on unbolting engine so belt can clear the formed keepers. (DO NOT try to pry them to the side - guarantee a damaged pulley and then belt will shred) With engine unbolted (depending on configuration also need to remove muffler from front, but wont need to remove exhaust pipe) you can shift engine around to the rear and side to side while working old belt off, and new belt on, without pulley removal - If they get rusted on too tight, you can't really remove them very easily without destroying the pulley.

[lefty]

Thanks

[KE4AVB]

And that what we get from a company that won't use anti-seize compound. MTD Cub Cadets are the worst offenders here. I had unbolt an engine on LTX1040 Friday and it couldn't shifted rearward or sideways to get the drive belt on. Actually had raise above the engine plate, put the belt on, and work the engine back on the plate. I had done twice now on this particular mower. This time someone had already pried on the engine pulley but I got lucky and was able straighten the pulley damage out. The first time I change the drive belt it took me several hours getting the electric clutch off due to no anti-seize, this time fell off as I used anti-seize.

As BGS said sometimes the only choice is to pull the old pulley because someone had severely damage it. It is a pain as for me I got pull the engine so I can get my puller mounted then while using a torch removed the pulley which destroys it. Of course crankshaft gets cleaned up and new pulley installed with anti-seize applied. So far I have only had to cut one electric PTO off an crankshaft and it was on Cub Cadet ZTR.

There was also a complaint the mower was very slow moving forward which considering the condition of the drive belt would have been the sole source of problem but it wasn't. It was caused by a careless hunter. Hunters are very bad about leaving the their empty shotgun shells laying all over the place and somehow one got throw up into the control linkages of the hydro transaxle. I reckon that's okay as I made $65 off because of it. Just wish I could have charged the hunter directly.

Come on folks garbage cans are everywhere; just takes a few seconds to pick up your waste and put it in one but of course some are way too lazy and uncaring.

[KE4AVB]

Finally got a chance to lookup the mower. Manual PTO with double shack pulley.

Yes the pulley needs dropping but you don't need to fully remove it; dropped enough to get the drive belt off. Hint block of wood helps. If dropped fully then don't lose the engine's pulley spacer or install it upside down, the flare end goes to engine side. Re-torque pulley bolt to 55 ft-lbs.

[38racing]

Youtube guy named Taryl replaces bolt with one with dimple in head and uses am impact point on the bolt to walk the pulley off. I've seen it work for. Hasn't worked for me yet.

[lefty]

Wrapped it up today. Replaced both drive belts and everything looks good. Thanks for everything, especially the torque specs for the engine pulley. Drives well.

[38racing]

Any issues dropping the pulley?

[lefty]

It actually fell right off. I was surprised. Getting the bolt out was pretty tough, although my impact did most of the work. There was a lot of thread seal on there. I had to run a tap through it before reinstalling. They didn't design this one for quick and easy belt changes. Had to remove or loosen both pulleys at the transmission and a little belt guard about 1/2 way down underneath. It was a pain.

[KE4AVB]

Yes MTDs are a pain to change drive belts on but there are some other OEMS where you got to drop the steering components. Once you know what to expect it is not so bad just time consuming. At least you didn't get one where someone else had taken a lot of it a part. With MTD I know I am in for up to half day if drive belts need changing and that provided that I don't find problems with the transaxle.

I had a Murray a few years back that came into the shop in boxes on a the back of a pickup truck because the owner wanted to change a drive belt. He didn't know he had to just remove the steering shaft. I felt sorry for the guy and back it back together billing him $50. He bitched like a crazy man that I had charge $50. He shut up I when said okay let me rework the bill and charge you the full 8 hours of labor it took to reassemble. It would have been a nice chuck of change @ $45 per hour. I haven't seen him back but I am glad in one way as he was trouble.