Holding Flywheel to Tighten Nut

[dennis]

Briggs & Stratton Mod 215802, Type 0114-E1, Type 050726ZA:

I am reinstalling the flywheel on the above engine. Book says 100 foot-pounds. Removing nut was easy...used pneumatic wrench. Using the torque wrench to re-install, but having trouble holding flywheel and using torque wrench. Flywheel is cast, with plastic fan above. Is it ok to but up against coil pedestal to hold flywheel. It is on a log splitter, and nothing to grab at other end (PTO). I could try a strap wrench, but will have to remove ignition coil to use it. Any suggestions?

[38racing]

What about rope in the cylinder?

[Skywatcher]

Hi Dennis

A strap wrench around the cast iron portion of the flywheel is probably the safest, but as you say, the ignition coil would have to be removed. What 38 is suggesting also works if done correctly. Find TDC compression stroke and turn the engine backwards just about ⅜ turn. With the spark plug removed, feed as much clean ¼" nylon rope or #8 starter cord into the cylinder as you can, making sure you leave some hanging out of the sparkplug hole. Rotate the engine forward until you feel the piston pushing up against the rope in the cylinder, now torque the flywheel nut. Turn the engine backwards a little and extract the rope. Hope this helps,

Sky

[dennis]

Thanks guys for the input. I have used rope before, but have two concerns. First, 100 ftlbs seems like a lot of pressure to be putting on the top of the piston, and second, this is overhead valves, and I would be a little concerned about rope getting stuck under valve....although a 1/4" or larger shouldn't.

[bgsengine]

Thanks guys for the input. I have used rope before, but have two concerns. First, 100 ftlbs seems like a lot of pressure to be putting on the top of the piston, and second, this is overhead valves, and I would be a little concerned about rope getting stuck under valve....although a 1/4" or larger shouldn't.

Just loosen rockers and/or press down on the valve side of rocker and work the pushrod out from under. then no worries about valves. as far as how much pressure is on the piston, with enough rope to fill the chamber, load is spread over a wider area, plus bear in mind the pressures that engine would experience when running (combustion pressure)..

[Skywatcher]

Hi Dennis

This is why I said to start with the engine on TDC compression stroke, so both valves are closed. What I wasn't thinking of was the automatic compression release system and how the rope may be putting pressure on the ACR lifter. BG has a good idea, just pop the push rods out, then you know for certain that both valves are completely closed and you won't be forcing any pressure back down the valve train.

As for pressure on the piston, by turning the engine back a little beyond ¼ turn, you should be able to get enough rope into the cylinder so the crank throw is approximately 90º to the cylinder. This will give the least amount of pressure on the piston for the maximum amount of torque on the crankshaft. Think about it, when you're using a torque wrench, your arm or line of pull should be perpendicular, or at 90º to the shaft of the torque wrench. This gives you maximum amount of torque with the least amount of pull. Hope this makes sense,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

Just be aware this one of the engines that APSI 82 and APSI 89 bulletins is applied to where especially if before date code 120701xxxxxx you need change the aluminum flywheel key to a steel one. Also all of the 210000, 280000, 310000, and 330000 flywheel retainer is now to be torque to 110 ft-lbs.

Please read the two APSIs listed above. They are available in the downloads section of this forum under the Briggs Service Info>Advance Product Service Info.

[dennis]

Thanks for the good info everyone. Will check out APSI 82 & 81.