You need to find yourself a set of multi-tip tester leads - They have threads on the upper end of the needle probes to thread on different test probe tips, such as alligator clip (best ones have insulated outer sheath), and Needle Point (long slim probes, sharp like a needle), spade terminal (male & Female) and similar probe adapters. I can't find it now but I got a nice set from a ATV parts website., after noticing the probe set in a (I think Kawasaki or Yamaha) OEM ATV service manual.. and then researching on that, came across several versions, ranging anywhere from a few bucks (made in china insulated alligator clips) to a few hundred dollars (OEM Service tool set)38racing wrote:As you said I would do voltage drop if i had 3 hands but I need to get alligator clips made up for tester.
Yeah the starters are not really built for the torque needed for modern higher compression engines.. unless the engine has a gear reduction (usually a solenoid shift) starter So, knowing the compression specs for the engine you're working on is important.. too much compression, your starter is gonna struggle.. Often the first thing I will check since a compression test is quick and easy, as long as you can get starter to crank engine over at all.. (I keep a good, fully charged automotive 650 CCA battery around just for that reason- I can use it for jump starts) and pretty much all the briggs OHV Intek engines (single and twin) use the aluminum intake and steel exhaust pushrodsI used to have a squeeze switch until a neighbour fried it. Wondering if this twin needs the release when a cylinder is only 20 cubic inch and only one on compression at a time. But looked like intake rod was aluminum and exhaust was steel.
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