MTA log splitter not splitting

[plpitts1]

Update:
After consulting via private messaging with one of you fine gents, I was directed to Speeco, the manufacture of the hydraulics on this unit. They emailed me a Pump and Cylinder diagnostic sheet. It told me to cap the pressure line going from the pump to the valve (handle that moves the wedge back and forth), and try to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs, the pump is no good. I tried this and the engine could not be started. So pump is good.
After that it said to move the cylinder half way out and block it off. Connect an air chuck to connector at the rear of the cylinder. Disconnect the return hose at the filter and put it into a bucket. Push the valve handle into splitting position and pressurize with no more than 100 PSI. If the cylinder pressurizes then the cylinder is good. If fluid is pushed out into the bucket, the cylinder seals have failed or there is damage to the internal cylinder wall. Fluid gushed out of mine.
Backing up just a bit, originally I had determined that the directional valve was at fault because when the wedge came back, the handle would stay in the reverse position and would not kick out on its own. So I replaced it. Oops! Therefore I knew the valve was good when I was doing the above diagnostics.
Thanks again for yawls information.
Pat

[bgsengine]

Awesome! and some really good information! Thanks for posting back to let us know how it worked out.. I would guess you need a new cylinder (or have it rebuilt)

[plpitts1]

The gentleman from Speeco said he will email me step by step on rebuilding the cylinder. I asked him do most people rebuild or buy new cylinders, he said that it’s about 50/50. After I get back to work on Friday, I will read the instructions and decide which way to go. I would like to rebuild, but it is ultimately up to my boss.
Pat

[okie]

I am glad you are getting it sorted out. As Brian said, thanks for posting back.Your information could well help someone else out.

Travis

[Millwright]

the lever didn't kick out because it has to generate a certain amount of pressure before the valve "knows" the cylinder is in the retracted position. On most it is user adjustable. Yours didnt make the pressure minimum because it was bypassing past the piston in the cylinder.

I worked for john deere for years and have rebuilt many cylinders. Just look carefully how the seals are installed before removing, and gently replace them the same. Be careful upon reassembly not to pinch or otherwise distort the first seal to go into the cylinder. Its actually pretty easy. Clamp the whole thing in the vise (gently, but sturdily) and have at it! Another set of hands and eyes can be beneficial upon reassembly!

[wobbedennis]

Don't let a shop rebuild it. they'll tell you that it needs about 500 in repair costs, when all in needs is seals. All it more then likely needs is some new seals.

[plpitts1]

Yes I would like to rebuild it. But the powers that be say if we fix the machine we will order a new cylinder (for $250.00). I work for a chain and the seals are not available to me, only the cylinder.
And yes I can see now why the lever would not return to neutral. Learning.
Thanks for input and info.
Pat