Changing rear transmission seal on Craftsman tractor?

[dart451]

Another question on Craftsman tractor, 917.255914, briggs 422437-1209-01...have any of you tried to change the seals on the rear wheel shaft on these older tractors? The right rear seal has leaked quite a bit. I am wondering if this can be accomplished without taking the whole transmission apart to do so. I can get to the seal with the wheel off and outer hum off but...it looks like I'd have to dig out the old seal...

[RoyM]

That is the easiest way but try to do it gently, you will have to match it up as Roper parts are no longer available. The original was p/n 7393R

[38racing]

Big jug of oil might be easiest solution.

[KE4AVB]

The oil seal 7393R is superseded to 532007393.

If new image of the new seal is the same as the old seal then removal is easy with the right hook tool. The problem for me was the right tool don't exist so I had to make own puller so it a make shift tool; until' I can redesign it into easier to use version. So far every commercial puller I tried I have broken on the very first try.

Some oil will leak out during the process unless you have the transaxle out. It is important to clean the axle of all rust and then wrap with a layer of electrical tape if splined or keyed to prevent new seal damage.

At least the tools I tried were warranty with a money back guarantee. I only lost my time and the vehicle expenses.

[dart451]

Hmm, ok...I have a feeling the customer isn't gonna want to pay the labor to do the seal and I'd had to completely destroy the old seal without a special tool to get the old one out! So, I looked all over and cannot find anywhere that is accessible to add oil to this transmission. Do you have to take the rear fender and seat off to access it?

[Skywatcher]

Hi Dart

If the axle is parallel and the seal can slide off without having to remove the axle from the transmission, here's a trick that an old auto mechanic taught me many years ago. Drill 3 small holes into the metal of the seal about 120° apart and thread a self tapping screw into each hole. Now use a heel bar or pry bar under the heads of the screws to gently work the seal out of the axle housing.

Being an old stick shift transaxle, it should have 3 pipe plugs in the main casing, a fill plug, a level plug and a drain plug. John Deere recommended GL-5 80w90 gear oil in the 1970's 110 transaxles. There were times we had to install a Speedy-Sleeve onto the axle due to the groove worn into the axle by dirt caught in the seal lip. Hope this gives you some ideas,

Sky

[dart451]

Ok, thanks for the advise sky! I took off the rear fender and fuel tank...I do not see anywhere on the tranny where oil can be added! After looking at the diagram, the only pipe plug I see is located on the bottom of the tranny, certainly not a place to fill the tranny if I ever get a new seal in place... Anyone know how adding oil is accomplished??

[KE4AVB]

If I am not mistaken you fill it through the gear shift lever entry point. Otherwords you have to remove the gear shifter lever, Three screws.

[bgsengine]

Ok, thanks for the advise sky! I took off the rear fender and fuel tank...I do not see anywhere on the tranny where oil can be added! After looking at the diagram, the only pipe plug I see is located on the bottom of the tranny, certainly not a place to fill the tranny if I ever get a new seal in place... Anyone know how adding oil is accomplished??

there's an oil level plug in the side or rear of the transmission that is also the oil level mark (fill til oil runs out) If you got the gasket though, much easier to pull shift lever (make sure it is in Neutral) and fill from there until oil comes out the filler hole which isn't as easily accessible (You need to rig a flexible tube to the oil fill bottle as a funnel won't fit in there, nor will the bottle)

You'll want the Peerless transaxle manual for details on those transmissions.

[dart451]

Thank you gentlemen! Appreciate the help as always!