UPS dropped/damaged one of my vintage restorations!

[bgsengine]

Would applying some "anti-sieze" paste on the offending/leaking head bolt seal it up and stop the dripping?

Doubtful.

Anybody have an idea why it is now leaking?

Shouldn't be leaking, per se- there's no where that there should be any lubrication circulating around there, unless there is a crack from the valve lifter galley or valve guide...

I cleaned it off 3 times , but it is still dripping.

I'd pull the bolt then flush the hole and threads out with carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner til it flows clear, let it dry, and try again (assuming you didn't also flush the bolts of film of oil)

I am thinking about installing another cylinder head I have with a new metal/asbestos gasket. I always true (flatten) the cylinder head contact surface before installing by using 600 grit sandpaper attached to a piece of 1/4" glass.
Thanks for your interest and opinions.
Michael

I can't imagine where oil would be coming from other than it being residual, or aforementioned hairline cracks from valve guide, valve box, etc. Is it clear engine oil (same as coming from engine) or is it dirty-ish oil? (could be cracked bore? resulting in some tiny bit of blow-by there under combustion pressures & heat?)

[KE4AVB]

Beginning to sound like the 73 international engine I had to give up on. We had lost of oil pressure once warmed up. Me and the machine could never find the reason for the lost. A crack in the block somewhere where we couldn't see it. That what I got for selling the truck to my hot head brother he blew the engine up.

[Arkie]

Just a hi8nt:

I had a similar thing few years ago and instead of using a head bolt I installed a stud with the threads coated in a thread sealer after cleaning both the hole and the stud threads really good. Also by using a stud you could leave the nut off for a short run to see if oil still comes out. If oil still comes out the leak is above the threads. I would let the high temp RTV dry for couple days before subjecting to oil.
My issue leak was getting into a threaded HEAD BOLT hole due to a small crack in the block.
You might try something like this on the threads of a stud or bolt and if it stops or slows the oil drip you then know that the leak is into the threaded area and not at the gasket or head itself. This is a High temperature RTV and I've also used it on exhaust mainifold gaskets on vec's to reduce leaks and when it gets hot it looks like melted copper on the gasket. It won't do a thread lock, a bolt or stud can still be removed later if desired.

I suspect your head is bad instead of the block. You say fins broken at the area of the leak.
I would either install another head or blacken the bottom of the head with a permanent marks a lot pen and relap the head on a glass plate and see if the head still flat and do a straght edge close inspection of the block area of the leak.


Another reason I used a stud instead of a bolt is if I decided to remove the head at a later time I could remove the stud's nut and leave the stud in place and it would stay sealed. (only had to remove the nut from the stud and lift off the head.
https://www.permatex.com/products/oreil ... rtv-3-5oz/

[creia]

UPDATE # 6: ****(Note:I did this earlier today BEFORE reading Arkie's reply):
I removed the damaged cylinder head and cleaned both the hole and head bolt that had been leaking (head bolt had a light coating of oil on the threads full length) as per Brian's suggestion.. There was also some oil on top of the block both on top of and under the head gasket around the leaking head bolt thread hole. No other head bolts had any oil on the threads or around their holes.
I then installed another good used cylinder head I had in stock after truing (flattening) it with 600grit sandpaper over glass AND using a NOS metal/asbsetos head gasket.
The engine has been run about 20 minutes and no leak -so far.

Arkie, interesting, your comment about using the Permatex Ultra Copper! That was kind of my reasoning when I mentioned in an earlier update about using anti-sieze compound as a type of "thread-sealant" for the head bolt to stop the dripping (Your suggestion is clearly better- Thank you). I am still going to run it some more. If it starts to drip again (even a little) I'll try the Ultra Copper gasket maker.
Michael

[creia]

UPDATE # 7;
It has been over 3 weeks since I first reported damage and 2 weeks since UPS inspected the damage and my packaging. Still no payment/reimbursement from UPS I keep calling The UPS Store and all they say is that "it is in the works". I feel that they are "supposed to be" my advocate in this claim but they are dropping the ball. I am going to go around them and complain directly to UPS.
The engine has been fully repaired and repainted and is ready to be packaged and shipped (again!) to my buyer.
Michael

[SUKI]

Sounds about right. Quick to take your money but slower than a snail giving it back.

[creia]

Last update and epilogue...
I finally got my payment from UPS- it took 4 weeks from the time I first made a claim!
As it turned out 2 of the cylinder block threaded holes (closest to the bore) did start to leak oil again very slightly. I used the "Ultra" exhaust gasket compound that Arkie recommended and it did the trick (thanks again Arkie! I re-shipped the engine to the buyer (UPS paid for it) and he is happy.

Something that I learned about making a claim with UPS that I'll pass along to you. If you use a "UPS Store" to ship your item, for the most part UPS customer service (corporate) will not talk to you, or if they do they will not provide any useful information about the progress/status of your claim. Instead, they tell you to contact The UPS Store. Unfortunately, mine was "marginal" at best as far as customer service goes.
Michael

[bgsengine]

Something that I learned about making a claim with UPS that I'll pass along to you. If you use a "UPS Store" to ship your item, for the most part UPS customer service (corporate) will not talk to you, or if they do they will not provide any useful information about the progress/status of your claim. Instead, they tell you to contact The UPS Store. Unfortunately, mine was "marginal" at best as far as customer service goes.
Michael

Yep. and UPS Store would charge you full retail UPS rates, you can save money by doing your own shipping labels online - even if you don't want to be bothered with ups.com account, For example, a pirateship.com account would be well worth it as you can ship by UPS, USPS, and more, and pay discounted commercial rates. you just need to be able to print your own labels on a good quality inkjet or laser printer on plain paper (or you can buy peel-n-stick labels in standard 8.5 x 11 sheets - don't need a thermal label printer)