Alternator wires running Hot

[bob]

John Deere GT275 with Kawaski FC540V

Orginal problem started with Battery light coming on and off intermitently. Fixed that just by touching rectifier connector and wires. Cleaned up connector and everything good. Then I noticed that the alternator wires at connector are really hot. Warm enough that you do not want to hold them. Measures ac at alternator and good at about 13.5 vac. Reglulator vlotage is also good at about 14vdc. I did test ground wire on regulator to ground and appears fine. Any idea what would cause alternator wires at regulator to be so hot. Not blowing any fuses. This is the John Deere that has the key switch mounted to a module board. Could it be just be the regulator is the problem?

[KE4AVB]

Is this without the PTO in operation? Also make the terminals at the Reg are good and tight. F56 terminals are bad about breaking their contact hinge and then the terminal connection become somewhat leading to problems of over heating.

BTW the service manual is available in the downloads.

[bob]

This is when PTO is off. I Have cleaned all the contacts and I will check for tightest. Thanks for tip on manual, I did not know it was there

[Arkie]

Heat at a terminal connection in your case is usually the sign of a bad connection.

Most likely the heat will really increase when the amps draw is increased, and completely ruin a section of the wire and both of the connectors, etc.

Point being, it can get worse very rapidly.

[bob]

I have bypassed connector and went directly from stator wires to voltage regulator terminal with jumpers but still runs hot. What is confussing is when I measure the ac current of stator it starts off at about 4 amps and then steadily rises to near 10 amps, before rounding off.

[Arkie]

What does the DC amps coming out of the regulator read???

If it still get hot with the DC output from the regulator disconnected the Regulator is most likely bad.
If it does not get hot the battery may be overcharging.

If you do not have a DC ammeter that reads up to 20 amps you can find such on-line for less than $20. Taking voltage readings does not give you the ACTUAL amps load and amps is why typically produces heat.

[bob]

Update. Switched out voltage rectifier and hot wires disappeared. Also checked alternator current and now less than 4 amps not 9 Amos

[KE4AVB]

Tnx for reporting back you solution. Sounds like the regulator had some leaky diodes in the rectifier section; of course, you can't replace them without replacing the whole regulator assy.

I currently working on a Hustler Super Z that not charging the battery. So far I arcing the regulator terminals and I have replaced the three F56 terminals. The regulator was already replaced by the customer which initially forgot the ground strap.