38racing wrote:hanz63 wrote:IMO you'll never get it to keep a gasket. Me, I'd do a dry fit w/o a gasket. If it has couple hundred hours on it, it will probably be fine. Right stuff for sealant, prep the threads and lock it down hard. Or replace it.
Will crank end play go too low with no gasket?[/quote]
I have put some of the 31 and 33 series Briggs together without a gasket using Yamaha Bond 4.
I' check the crankcase end play with no gasket and if within specs I just use the yamaha Bond.
I use a wire brush on a battery operated drill and clean the gasket surface area really good then also use a cleaner. I let the Yamaha Bond set for about 12-24 hours before adding oil.
I've also used Yamaha bond on each side of a gasket with good results.
I've had to go back few on some enngines times if I just used a sealant on the non-sump side of the block, the oil eventually seeping between the paper and the non-sealant sump side when the block and oil got hot. I do not like go backs. Yamaha Bond is pricy but I store un-used tubes in a fridge and it last forever.
It bonds better than RTV. I've used it on chansaw blocks (2 cycles and no gasket with good results.
Cannot imagine the sump moving enough to destroy a gasket if the locating pins are in place.
I would at least try to clean out the sump thread holes, chase the threads with a bottom tap and mic theeir depth and the length of the bolts to make sur all are getting torqued W?0 bottoming.
I've felt your pain is why I started using Yamaha Bond 4, but I already stocked the Yamaha Bond 4 for 2 cycle chainsaw blocks.
10-4 on the trying to do shade tree mechanic work lately, temp in 100's and no wind blowing.