Echo PB-260L backpack blower carb issue

[jwales]

Echo PB-260L, engine family 5EHXS.0254KB. Cleaned the carb twice, new fule lines. Can't adjust lo or hi speed. Probably licensed dealer special tool. It starts great, idles great but can only throttle up maybe half way before it dies. I can keep it running if I throttle back quick enough. I am guessing the hi speed is plugged/restricted??
Since I don't have a tool am thinking it may be easier to just buy a new carb.(local repair shop is back logged 2 weeks at least) Seeing quite a range on prices for carb. $35 to $60. $35 being from E-bay.

[KE4AVB]

The only adjust on the WYJ is the idle mixture as far as I know which covered by a plastic plug.

Although it is a slim possibility you problem could be ignition related. I would try another carburetor first.

[bgsengine]

I would start with a basic tune-up. before half a C-note on a carb.

You would be *amazed* how many of these I have fixed with just replacing the fuel filter, line kit, air filter, and a fresh spark plug, never touched the carburetor, ran like new. Hmm.. wonder why Echo's RePower Kits are named that way.. and they are extremely popular sellers.

Filter kit 90030, and depending on serial number, either 90065 or 90075 tune up kit they don't have a fuel line and grommet kit for that model but easy enough to put together a decent kit with 90014, 90017 bulk fuel lines and the grommet (Depends on how many holes and what size the grommet is)

[Deere2me]

Echo PB-260L, engine family 5EHXS.0254KB. Cleaned the carb twice, new fule lines. Can't adjust lo or hi speed. Probably licensed dealer special tool. It starts great, idles great but can only throttle up maybe half way before it dies. I can keep it running if I throttle back quick enough. I am guessing the hi speed is plugged/restricted??
Since I don't have a tool am thinking it may be easier to just buy a new carb.(local repair shop is back logged 2 weeks at least) Seeing quite a range on prices for carb. $35 to $60. $35 being from E-bay.

Your best bet is to replace the carb. Fleabay has one fer 28.00 free shipping. Obviously check the fuel lines for holes, etc. and fuel filter, I usually use my blow gun aimed over/across the end of the fuel line to siphon the fuel out, if ya get a good spray, yer good to go. Or run air thru the filter and make sure it bubbles freely. Also check the tank vent fitting, it has a check valve in it that lets air in but not out.The air filter...I can't ever remember replacing one, just clean it.

[jwales]

so I have not touched this since I last posted,got busy with things and it got buried in the shed. so I took it out today and fired it up again, thinking maybe some majic happened and it would be cured of course not. still starts good n runs on lo idle/speed nicely. I took the blower tube off at the elbow so it is easier to work on the bench. while it was idling I grabbed the elbow and partially covered the opening and the engne sped up thought it was a fluke so tried it several times. same thing, in fact I was able to play with the throttle and get it to run wide open.....briefly then it began to stall out until I pulled the throttle back.
I don't understand why it did that?? Why would restricting exit air on the blower make the engine run at higher rpm? Are there some clues here as to what is wrong?

I checked fuel lines, no leaks. pulled muffler. no real build up of carbon but soaking/cleaning anyway. cleaned carbon out of exhaust port. going to try another sparkplug even though current one seems to work fine a idle and lo speed.

Thanks for your ideas/thoughts!

[bgsengine]

so I have not touched this since I last posted,got busy with things and it got buried in the shed. so I took it out today and fired it up again, thinking maybe some majic happened and it would be cured of course not. still starts good n runs on lo idle/speed nicely. I took the blower tube off at the elbow so it is easier to work on the bench. while it was idling I grabbed the elbow and partially covered the opening and the engne sped up thought it was a fluke so tried it several times. same thing, in fact I was able to play with the throttle and get it to run wide open.....briefly then it began to stall out until I pulled the throttle back.
I don't understand why it did that?? Why would restricting exit air on the blower make the engine run at higher rpm? Are there some clues here as to what is wrong?

I checked fuel lines, no leaks. pulled muffler. no real build up of carbon but soaking/cleaning anyway. cleaned carbon out of exhaust port. going to try another sparkplug even though current one seems to work fine a idle and lo speed.

Thanks for your ideas/thoughts!

Blocking off the blower tube removes the load on the engine. It is running too lean - have you tried that tune-up?
Make sure it has the *CORRECT* spark plug. - Echo can be real sensitive to the wrong plug - Had a customer a couple years ago with a GT200R - we did a tune up and maintenance and it ran good - this past spring they had it to another shop (closer to them) who replaced the NGK BPMR8Y with a Bosch plug (Equivalent to champion RCJ7Y) - and it only took 6 months before the machine was running like crap and using TWICE as much fuel as it should have... Simply replaced the spark plug with the CORRECT NGK BPMR8Y and his problems went away.. he had us do a complete tune up on it, and the machine runs good as new now... and a customer that is not planning on taking their equipment to anywhere else but our shop from now on.

Checked fuel lines how? did you pressure test them? replace the fuel filter? pressure test the carburetor?

and the carb only needs a special tool for the idle adjustment - the high speed is adjustable if you can get the limiter caps out and have a screwdriver small enough...

Also make sure your intake gaskets are not cracked or leaking, may also need to do a crankcase pressure test - (crank seals going out on these are not uncommon especially if they had been run overheating, or havent run in a long time and seals hardened up.)

-- Theres a lot that needs to be checked before condemning the carburetor. - almost always have been able to find something OTHER than the carburetor as being the problem.. as noted - it could be as simple as a plug change... and rarely have we had to ever adjust the carburetor - once they are set they tend to stay set... so if the machine was known to be running good and no one's tampered with the adjustments, I'd be looking at *every other* possibility before throwing a new carb in it... most of them are cheaper than a carb.

Also, before ordering a new carb (or any other parts for that matter) - It'll be a real good idea to make sure of your serial number and verify you are getting the right parts - there can be many differences in some of these models, and only way to know for sure is with the serial number.

[Deere2me]

so I have not touched this since I last posted,got busy with things and it got buried in the shed. so I took it out today and fired it up again, thinking maybe some majic happened and it would be cured of course not. still starts good n runs on lo idle/speed nicely. I took the blower tube off at the elbow so it is easier to work on the bench. while it was idling I grabbed the elbow and partially covered the opening and the engne sped up thought it was a fluke so tried it several times. same thing, in fact I was able to play with the throttle and get it to run wide open.....briefly then it began to stall out until I pulled the throttle back.
I don't understand why it did that?? Why would restricting exit air on the blower make the engine run at higher rpm? Are there some clues here as to what is wrong?

I checked fuel lines, no leaks. pulled muffler. no real build up of carbon but soaking/cleaning anyway. cleaned carbon out of exhaust port. going to try another sparkplug even though current one seems to work fine a idle and lo speed.

Thanks for your ideas/thoughts!

As bg mentioned, doing that just removes the load off the motor, no biggie.
As fer the carb, if yer not gonna replace it, ya might try adjusting the high speed needle only. Should be visible in the side of the carb that faces you. Look for a small hole that appears to be plugged..it is! They use a black plastic cup shaped plug, that is pressed in, cup facing out, to cover the screw. They make a special extractor tool, ( which I have) but I just take a very small sheet metal screw, chucked up in the end of my small vice-grips and while pushing in, give it a turn or two, then pull. Viola! Then a small jewelers screwdriver will let ya adjust it. Make sure the unit is warmed up first, and turn the screw out for mo'gas, in fer less. Don't mess with the idle mixture needle( the one in the center of the rotor).

[Mek-a-nik]

Well, I'm confused.

Wouldn't partially blocking off the exit air INCREASE the load on the engine? If you took this to the next logical step, and blocked off the air entirely, it certainly would.

[90+ret-d]

The power required is a combination of air volume and air pressure, blocking the air outlet causes an increase in pressure but reduces the volume so the HP required actually does become less. Try it on any blower, it works the same. Requires less HP to maintain pressure than to move a high volume of air or anything else.

[Deere2me]

Well, I'm confused.

Wouldn't partially blocking off the exit air INCREASE the load on the engine? If you took this to the next logical step, and blocked off the air entirely, it certainly would.

Yeah, well, it appears some so-called "mekaniks" are more EASILY CONFUSED than others. Ya know what I mean?