Engine Oil

[38racing]

thought I had made a post to this thread yesterday but does seem to have arrived.

Does or doesn't?

You made a post 411 days ago: posting.php?mode=quote&f=3&p=11198#pr6116

Does not. That old post I remember but I still think I posted into another oil thread too. Will post again later.

[JonCraig]

I use 10W30 Full Synthetic.

Synthetic oils still come from crude oil--they're just highly processed to have more even sized molecules so the shear is distributed more evenly. Synthetics have a higher flashpoint so they reduce burning off (a big plus in an air-cooled engine), and tend to have a beefier additive package than conventional oils. That is, better quality multi-viscosity polymers (holds its weight longer before shearing down), a better detergent package, and some have seal conditioners that keep gaskets in better shape.

I figure that I'm only buying a maybe 6 quarts per year for my own personal equipment… so what's the big deal in spending $48 versus $24 per year?

My $0.02

--JC

[Blueflame6]

I'm with JonCraig, Been using 10W-30 full syn. for years in all my O.P.E., and with no supposed "leaks" in any of my oldest engines.

[NO0C]

I use Super Tech Full Synthetic 10W30 from W². ~$17.50/5 qt. container ($3.50/qt.). No problems so far.

[38racing]

I was under the impression that synthetic oil did not use polymers to get its multi viscosity but a quick Google and I see I was wrong. But I found that some synthetics such as Mobil 1 are from group 4 base which is not from crude oil at all. Going to try to see if it uses polymers. Found that group 4 are based on none mineral sources of hydrocarbons and require less polymer for viscosity than other bases .