ATV and UTV repair manual suggestions?

[KE4AVB]

Can any of you forum member have any suggested repair manual reading materials on ATVs and UTVs that I can study? It looks like my customer base is leading me into repairing these breasts beasts. Several of my best clients have been bringing me these and have been willing for me to learn on their equipment. So far I have done several carbs and drive train repairs but I am a little unnerved by my lack of overall knowledge on these especially all of the integrated electronics operations.

Currently I have a 06 Kawasaki KVF750A torn down for the front driveshaft assembly overhaul, to me I would call it the front differential. As I pulled the left CV axle roller bearings just fell out because it cage is complete worn away. I still got to get the differential out before I can disassemble it so I see what else is bad as the oil leaking out is rust colored. Since I primary work outdoors I will be putting it off until later this week as it is going to just above 32F here for a few days.

[KE4AVB]

Nevermind....Customer walk in with the Kawasaki 750 Brute Force service manual on a DVD disc for me.

Now reading and waiting for weather to warm up somewhat.....

[bgsengine]

I used to get just about everything I needed at tradebit.com - downloadable manuals of all kinds and price isn't bad at all.

[Skywatcher]

It looks like my customer base is leading me into repairing these breasts.

Hi KE4

Wouldn't that be more of a job for a plastic surgeon, or are you just wanting to keep abreast of the times?

All the breast,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

I see the mis spelling on beasts as breasts. I'll correct it. Darn spell checker. Thanks for catching it.

Here lately there is just about as much plastic on the John Deere riders though. I put my hand through one hood on a SST16 a couple years ago.

It does take a surgeon to work on these as they are so tightly assembled; I mean your needing to take so much off just get at what needing to be fixed. It like doing a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle, twice. I had several lawn riders last Summer that I had to remove the rear upper body just get to a single bolt to replace an idler pulley. Some bright designer decided to do away using carriage bolts and started using plain cap screws. Probably because it is faster manufacture the frame with round instead square holes.

The current ATV unit I have taken off both upper and lower front A frame assemblies (the uppers are needing new bushings anyway) to pull the CV axles. Had to pull the front bumper/frame to get one of the upper A frame bolts out; someone installed it backwards.The winch bolts are rusted on; the nuts want to turn inside the winch housing. Why they didn't use stainless steel in a water prone area is just being plain cheap. Already spent 2-1/2 hrs getting to that differential and I still got it out; just as bad as working today's front wheel drive cars. At least I got the service manual now and know I am on the right path on disassembly. I am estimating it going to take 8 to 12 hours actual labor just to fix the problems because of all the rusted on parts. It is not going to be cheap fix by any means.

I do however got to buy a couple extra tools. One small ball joint removal tool and one drive hub holding tool so I can replace the drive belt. That drive holding tool I probably can make a copy of one as it looks like a large question mark sorta like the fan clutch tool I borrowed a few years ago when I replaced the fan clutch on my mother's S10 pickup. Customer said he will pay for the tool so I want be out any funds there. That simple tool is nearly $90 here.

Working these are not for the inexperience mechanic. It takes a highly skilled mechanic as it is so involved and doesn't hurt to have ability to mentally visualize how things are assembled together either.

[bgsengine]

Some bright designer decided to do away using carriage bolts and started using plain cap screws. Probably because it is faster manufacture the frame with round instead square holes..

Besides which, square holes develop cracks at the corners.... round holes have no corners.. They could have used weldments (studs) but as you say, its cheaper to just drill a hole and pop in a bolt, serviceability be damned - Although there are *SOME* models where the foot tunnel on the seat pan does have an access hole (covered by the decal which has to be cut or carefully removed and then re-taped.. hope your customer is not an OCD type that gets pissed off at that sort of access) - Although for some, replacement decals are available

[KE4AVB]

Although there are *SOME* models where the foot tunnel on the seat pan does have an access hole (covered by the decal which has to be cut or carefully removed and then re-taped.

I did have a couple versions of this to come in last year. Luckily most of my customers don't care by the time the mower comes in for service after they abused the heck out of them. I also got one in where there was an access point at the base of the operator tower for one bolt that was just behind it. Just barely could get a wrench in there but still a lot better then having to take the body half part.

Access to labels does seem to be problem area with most manufactures. I would like to replace those when install new parts that don't the labels on them.

As for serviceability it takes having actual repair techs in the equipment design departmetn for this to happen. That was one of the things that I liked about the Standard Register equipment that I worked on; they actually had them in the design department for in house built equipment which made the Customer Engineers jobs a lot easier especially since we were required to neckties (nooses in my opinion).

I seen one copier tech nearly strangled of count of his tie got caught in the in feed assembly. At least he had the present of mind to pull the power cord. I had to cut him out before he turn too blue. From then on he would only wear clip on ties. A forms burster is even more dangerous as the out feed rollers could be running at 1000 fpm on 500fpm machine. I would never wear my tie when working on these; no matter how much my supervisor complained.

[Arkie]

I've noticed that most cycle mechanics, especially the young ones have lots of tattoos, jewelry, especially the big ear lobe type donut ear decorations, hog ringers in their noses and lips, long hair in a pony tail and a bandana around their head with just their eyes partly showing, ass of their britches dragging the ground, and speak in a broken language that is not in the dictionary, big beer belly and most can't read or interpret a service manual.
If you are going to work on cycles or add them to your list of knowledge you might consider doing some of the above to see how it works out for you!

[KE4AVB]

I will not be doing any of those things...Simply too set in my ways. Personally I don't understand why they do it anyways.

This Kawasaki has really been a pain to get a part anyways; 9 hours just to get that front differential out. I admit some that time was figuring out how to even get it out and having remove the front bumper assembly because some idiot installed an upper a-frame bolt backward. I should had only to remove the winch but it's internal nuts were so rusted that it was impossible to remove without damaging it. Btw the manual reads just as bad as the removal instruction are back to front in the related chapters but at least the info is there. No wonder I have migraines for a week as a result.

That differential is now in the hands of a rebuilder as I could not see speeding over 750.00 for the specialized tools needed for an one time job especially since I would not even recoup their cost anytime soon. I just don't have it in my current budget.

My funds just dropped into to the shop's reserves after several mower shop tool purchases and upgrades anyway. Already spent 260.00 for a new ultrasonic cleaner and 100.00 for a low profile floor jack; of course, they are at least multiple use items. I have been needing both most of last year since I moved to the new shop; bigger carbs and lost my old jack. This doesn't include the new 44" tool cabinets, drills, high quality drill bits, air compressor repair, phone system, and computer upgrades that were needed among other things. Sure hope that there is no major surprises this year. I still got to order in the Husqvarna Auto Tune test software (around $200) as I see a lot Husqvarna saws coming the shop and only time before one these saws show up. Maybe I can work a deal with Husqvarna customer support to get this software tool.

So far I have been within budget on repairing the shop. Electrical reconnection via a 140 ft trench and lighting upgrades are only costing around 1000.00 since I am doing my own work. Still got to reconnect the shop's old wiring into the new breaker panel but I need to finish running down a possible electrical short first. Meter indicates a 12 amp drain somewhere. Narrow it to a switch circuit that leads to the attic; maybe some lighting up and other electrical items there, just to get up there and crawl around tracing wiring to find what it is, if nothing else for peace of mind as I know I will worry myself silly until I know for sure.

[Arkie]

KE4AVB
You wrote: Meter indicates a 12 amp drain somewhere. Narrow it to a switch circuit that leads to the attic; maybe some lighting up and other electrical items there, just to get up there and crawl around tracing wiring to find what it is, if nothing else for peace of mind as I know I will worry myself silly until I know for sure.

Here is a Fluke non contact voltage detector 320990987342 that is really handy for tracing and detecting the presence of live voltages. I use these when doing electrical work so as to MAKE SURE electrical wires have no voltage before I contact them. The tester is also good for tracing or locating a live romex cable in a attic if the wire is exposed (not in conduit) or if you have to open up a junction box to detect the circuit. Leave just the one circuit live and trace it to the source of the load for example. Also the non contact detectors are great to MAKE SURE that all circuits are dead (no live voltage) when opening up junction boxes that have several wires before starting work inside.

Just make sure every time BEFORE you start using the detector that it's actually working good at detecting voltages. (tester is not dead indicating no voltage on a live circuit)
Don't buy the real cheap China detectors. Stay with a name brank like Fluke.