Iron Block Clinton

[wristpin]

Been asked if I can get an iron block Clinton up and running (not yet found any identification or model numbers).
Never seen an iron block before let alone worked on one so went onto the net for valve clearance and ignition points gap data.
Found what I needed but after saying that the points should be 15-18thou it goes on to say "edge gap should be no less than 5 degrees".
Means nothing to me - any ideas?

[bgsengine]

Edge Gap = Think of a V shape as opposed to parallel || If your points sit like this: \/ instead of like || that's your edge gap. || = 0 degrees \/ would be about 30 degrees

[wristpin]

Could understand that if it said that "edge gap should be less than 5 degrees" as the points should ideally close square to one another but is says more than which makes no sense to me.

Found this reference to edge gap but that was for electronic rather than points ignition.

"On electronic systems, position of module near flywheel and width of air gap play important part in timing. Some older electronic ignition systems had slots in their armature coils that allowed both up and down and side to side motion. This type of coil is said to have both an air gap adjustment and an edge gap adjustment. In such an engine, the edge gap should be adjusted using the timing marks provided by the manufacturer."

All very strange!

[wristpin]

Clinton update.
IT RUNS !!!!!!
Bit noisy without a muffler but quite smooth!

[madmantrapper]

Glad to hear it, I love those old engines. I have a Wisconsin on a log slitter my brother and I build along about 1985. The engine was build in 1958 I think.

[hillsider]

Clinton update.
IT RUNS !!!!!!
Bit noisy without a muffler but quite smooth!

That's good news, I suppose the `Edge Gap' must have been within tolerance then.
Ray.

[wristpin]

I suppose the `Edge Gap' must have been within tolerance then.

Presumably yes!
Now for the problems with the fuel tank and the exhaust muffler!
The tank probably had a screw in metal tap but the thread had been stripped and a plastic one "gunged" in.
The exhaust is interesting in that similar sized more recent engines form the likes of Briggs and Tecumseh use female (internal) threads compatible with British Standard Pipe thread so a visit to a decent plumbing merchant will usually sort the issue.
However the exhaust port on this Clinton, although internally threaded is slightly, smaller than any muffler or BSP fitting that I have.
The engine is likely to end up on an auction site so I suppose I shouldn't be too bothered but it would be nice to get it right.

[wristpin]

Getting there!
The exhaust issue is solved. What I thought was a small diameter port was actually a regular sized one with the remains of half inch BSP threads but completely lined with a very hard smooth ring of carbon! Persistence with a rotary wire brush followed by a half inch BSP tap turned a few degrees at a time with plenty of lubricant have restored enough thread for a regular muffler on a water pipe bend - job done!
Final job will be sorting the stripped tap mounting boss in the fuel tank. In days gone by I would have just brazed a nut onto the tank to form a new boss but having sold my business I no longer have access to Ox-Acetylene equipment so its time for a plan B.
A company here in the UK who distribute both genuine and replacement parts, used to sell a US sourced tap repair kit which involved drilling the hole oversize, popping in a rubber/plastic bush followed by a new tap that expanded the bush and sealed the tank. They no longer offer this kit but does anyone know whether it's still available in the US?

[bgsengine]

Getting there!
The exhaust issue is solved. What I thought was a small diameter port was actually a regular sized one with the remains of half inch BSP threads but completely lined with a very hard smooth ring of carbon! Persistence with a rotary wire brush followed by a half inch BSP tap turned a few degrees at a time with plenty of lubricant have restored enough thread for a regular muffler on a water pipe bend - job done!
Final job will be sorting the stripped tap mounting boss in the fuel tank. In days gone by I would have just brazed a nut onto the tank to form a new boss but having sold my business I no longer have access to Ox-Acetylene equipment so its time for a plan B.
A company here in the UK who distribute both genuine and replacement parts, used to sell a US sourced tap repair kit which involved drilling the hole oversize, popping in a rubber/plastic bush followed by a new tap that expanded the bush and sealed the tank. They no longer offer this kit but does anyone know whether it's still available in the US?

With a little looking you can probably find a suitable insert like that at hardware stores - They use them in lots of things so your local hardware store or building supply house, or auto parts store (Auto Body Repair) etc can probably find a suitable sized insert to do the same thing.

[wristpin]

With a little looking you can probably find a suitable insert like that at hardware stores - They use them in lots of things so your local hardware store or building supply house, or auto parts store (Auto Body Repair) etc can probably find a suitable sized insert to do the same thing.

Thanks, nice idea but I think that there may be a big difference between "over there and over here", but I'll ask around!