Flat bed sander

[KE4AVB]

Anyone used a flat bed sander to clean up cylinder heads? I know I probably need slow one down somewhat dealing aluminum anyway. In the last year I had to flatten several heads due to warp-age. Kinda hoping there is a little better and faster way of doing this then a sheet of sand paper and flat surface. I know they use them to larger automobile engine heads.

I spent nearly an hour straightening out a NLA head Sunday because is so pitted that the new metal head gasket would not seal. A shame for a only nine year old engine to have the head to be NLA from Briggs but of it a 500 series on a cheap Weedeater mower and head was around $50 list when it was available.

Darn graphite/metal gasket might have work just don't like using them on L-heads and on that head I don't that one had seal anyway.

[bgsengine]

I would see bout investing in an end mill instead - a good reliable flat bed sander with enough surface size to handle heads like that might set you back almost as much (not cheap chinese junk) - would want a sander that can surface the whole head in one pass or you end up with uneven surfaces anyway - an end mill will be much more precise and more useful too...

[KE4AVB]

BGS, I was of something similar to this 6" wide one at HF since I don't that higher demand right now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-x-9-in-combination-belt-and-disc-sander-61750.html

Can you post an link what you are thinking so see what I would looking for. Try Googling mill end and all I got was a bunch of drill bits. Probably just didn't use the right search terms for it.

[bgsengine]

Something like this: https://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-M ... hine/G8689 or http://www.bibbtool.com/shop-fox%C2%AE- ... -8139.html (might be just a little too small for head work at 2-3/4" travel x 2 ways = maximum 5-1/2 milling width if you rotate the piece 180 degrees on table and do in 2 passes - then there's the really cheapo one on ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proxxon-MICRO-M ... 1598847910 )

I am actually thinking about getting that Grizzly myself..

[KE4AVB]

Look into what was suggested it a lot more machine than what I currently need but will keep them in mind for later as the shop expands. There is only so much room a 2 car garage to work with.

[Franz]

A few things I can tell you about head surfacing with a sanding belt, the first is unless you have a steady diet of them to feed the machine you'll go broke replacing belts. Belts that aren't frequently run have a nasty habit of coming apart at the glue joint, and for your use aren't repairable.

For small engine heads grab a sheet of sandpaper, and staple it to a piece of high quality plywood, preferably with a plastic surface like formply or even a sink cutout from a countertop so you have the smooth surface. Mount that to a palm sander or pawn shop half sheet sander, sit comfortably and hold the sander between your knees and surface the head.

Don't tell Bobo though or he'll be doing something strange with the machine.

[Arkie]

This may be what you are doing now.
For the small engine heads I use a pane of glass and a sheet of sandpaper that is larger than the surface of the head I ne4ed to lap lay the glass on a flat surface and full sheet of sandpaper and do the first impression check with fine sandpaper so as to see how it looks after few strokes.
If it requires a coarser wet dry sandpaper then back to fine for finish.
I never had to spend very much time lapping a small aluminum or steel head doing such using glass.

I also lap sand parts such as outboard motor lower unit gearbox caps for a secure fit.