mtd transaxle end play

[38racing]

Current setup was .040 so I will leave it at that. I replaced the bushings on the drive/brake shaft but noticed when just setting top cover on there play at brake end. Those bushings have a tab that fits in case to prevent rotation so the case opening should not really wear. Maybe will be tight when bolted down.

[KE4AVB]

Those bushings have a tab that fits in case to prevent rotation so the case opening should not really wear. Maybe will be tight when bolted down.

Usually will tighten up when using new bushings but if they are reclaimed bushings then yes they could be loose as I have seen a couple; Actually had to use a wrap around thin shim once to remove the play from the outside of the bushing to casing. As you said there should be no actual wear just looseness from the previous compression fit.

[38racing]

Now this is what is frustrating. I have been working from the ipl for the actual tractor (1999)and the ipl picture says 618-0163B transaxle. Item 26 on either side of the differential is (26 736-0445 Fl-Wash. .760" I.D. x 1.5" O.D.) And the more outer washer on the right side shows as a selection of washers (60 ** Washer (See Below)) from .010 to .060. And nowhere is there reference to the 1/4" washer/spacer that I have on either side of the differential.
So I happen to open the ipl for a slightly newer MTD product (2004) and happen by the transaxle picture. Says it is 618-0163B ie same. But now part 26 is listed (26 750-0767 Axle Spacer) and the next washer on the right is not a selection but just the .060 washer (60 736-0445 Flat Washer .76 ID x 1.5 OD x .060).
I am sure my unit is the original 99 unit in it and it definitely has the spacers. And model number on it is 618-0163B and numbers on top and bottom case match the IPLs.
And both IPLs list same bottom case and same differential assembly.
There is no way both IPLs can be right. The same differential will not fit in same bottom case , in one situation with 1/4"spacers and the other with a .060 washer and have similar clearances. Ugh.
Now in my case I match the newer 'spacer' IPL except on the right I had the .060 washer and another which was likely .020 worn to .015 which I replaced with the.030.

[38racing]

Ok I have it back together but may have jumped the gun doing that. I read some more of that 700 manual and decided that since I did change some bearings and bushings I should check some clearances, although I did leave all washers as per original ( I hope)except for the one change in the axle to get clearance there.
Anyway my input shaft end play appears to be .010 with 2 .030 washers. Now page 67 says clearance should be .015-.020. So I need 2 .025 washers or a .030 and .025 to be in range. But the table on page 74 gives the spec as .010 to .015 making my setup with 2 .030 ok. I guess if I can find a .025 washer then I am at .015 which is in range for both specs listed.
Now the difficult one. I didn't really worry about pinion back lash as I assumed it would be ok since no new parts there. ( I know, I didn't allow for wear , right?)) Well now I find a problem . First maybe I screwed up by putting it together with grease before checking this. Based on 700 manual I put it in reverse and hold the brake rotor. I can just turn input shaft a tiny bit either way so that seems ok. But when I do that in forward I can turn input a 1/4 turn between stops. Now I need to add some washers to move the forward bevel gear inward. I have done the test several times. I don't see how the grease could possibly increase the backlash so likely wear on the forward bevel?

[KE4AVB]

Double check your assembly of the driveshaft components and for wear on the clutch dog and bevel gear engagement faces. From your description it sounds like you left out some parts or have them in the wrong place. Backlash should be within specs or you will have a whining (noisy) gearbox as gears don't mesh properly.

[38racing]

I think I will swap the bevel gears right off the bat and see if the big lash moves to reverse and then try to shim it up. After checking that I put it back as it was in the first place.

[38racing]

And I just checked my 95 handbook and it has a different way of checking backlash with case open. Top case upside down with parts in place and use feeler or dial gauge. I am recalling now that I did this on a previous unit I had apart.

[38racing]

Ok lesson learned here for us KE4AVB. It is not always a good idea to use manual for a different model. That 700 manual backlash test does not work for a 600. I took it apart and followed the 95 handbook and my back lash was fine. I studied it a bit and figured out why I got the 1/4 shaft turn when holding brake as test. The clutch collar and bevel gears are different design than 700 unit. On mine the collar has 3 dogs but they are narrower than the mating recess section of the bevel gears. So if dog is up against one side of recess you can turn input shaft and turn bevel gear until other sides touch with out the brake shaft turning. I was puzzled why it seemed only an issue in forward but eventually I was able to do same in reverse.

[KE4AVB]

I was thinking that it would have the three point but as you said a 1/4 turn seem like a lot but does make sense due to the gear ratio between the input gear and the bevels. I seen some of these one speed have a lot slop in them too when shifting to and fro but still a good heel and toe pattern when I use the machinist blue to check the wiping pattern.

Glad you got it figured out . I had confidence in your ability that you would from our previous working together on other projects.

Either way if you don't mind sending me a link to where I can download the 1995 manual you have and I post it in the MTD manual section for other members to have access to it too. It may be one I have but haven't posted as I haven't had time to read thru it yet.

[38racing]

My 95 manual is a hardcopy and number not found online but I found the exact same section on the transaxle in the mtd book 2 ... 770-10579 that you already have available in the download section.