MTA log splitter not splitting

[plpitts1]

Hello, I have a log splitter: Model 401628MTA, SN 12130110. The pump on it says D/C 1F2509760, P/N 39070900. As soon as the wedge hits the log it stops (not the engine but the wedge). It seems very weak. It will split small pieces. The engine runs strong with no problems, the key to the pump is not sheered and the shaft continues to spin as the wedge stops. Hydraulic fluid is at the correct level with no leaks, and I put on a new filter. The hoses seem fine and are not collapsing. I have not messed with hydraulics before. Thinking of pulling off the pump but really do not know what I’m looking for. I’ve read there is a spring loaded ball to check, but past that…..
Thanks,
Pat

[KE4AVB]

Check to make pump is coupler on the pump is still turning. The engine is connected to the via a jaw coupler with a rubber spider in between which can fail. If the pump side coupler is still turning strong when the wedge stops then you a seal failure somewhere in the hydraulic side. You need to have someone the right equipment to pressure test the hydraulics. Without the high pressure gauges and adapters to test with, it is very dangerous to play around with these. You can be seriously hurt if you don't know what you are doing.

As for the cause the pump, the auto return valve or the cylinder itself could be the problem as o-ring failure in anyone of these can cause a loss pressure.
For anyone else with an idea,, here is a link to the IPL of this log splitter.

[JandL]

Without the high pressure gauges and adapters to test with, it is very dangerous to play around with these. You can be seriously hurt if you don't know what you are doing.

That is a very true statement. I am a warranty dealer for this type of splitter, you NEED to contact a shop capable of testing this type of machine. Check your warranty, is it still new enough to be under warranty? There is a new coupler type that is to be used, the older jaw type is not recommended anymore due to a high failure rate. Get in touch with a authorized dealer/repair shop, do NOT try to fix this yourself. Call SpeeCo at this number if you need help finding an authorized shop 1-800-525-8322.

[bobodu]

Could be as simple as air in the lines after putting in the new filter. Try slowly cycling it a few times. I highly doubt your by-pass has failed.

[bgsengine]

I'd vote with bobodu - Try cycling the hydraulics a few times (No log to split - just run it out as far as it goes until engine starts to stall out or bog down, which is when the bypass kicks in, then retract it all the way back, again until bypass kicks in, rinse and repeat a couple times. .. and if bypass never kicks in, it is well within possibility that bypass has stuck open.)

There are a number of possibilities that can cause your problem, without needing pressure testing, starting with:
1) Slipping clutch / lovejoy (Verify hydraulic pump shaft is turning, when piston stops moving.)
2) Air in the lines (make sure cylinder is level / horizontal when cycling, if possible, so air will make it out of the cylinder)

Pressure testing may be needed to diagnose further may lead to a bad pump (dirt in oil from careless filter change?) or piston ring failure (the ram piston, not engine.) or scoring in the cylinder, piston, or ring(s) or control valve or spool is passing fluid.

Hydraulics are quite simple, BUT they are also very dangerous without proper precautions and training - even a tiny leak that you can't see, can be lethal - pressure is enough that a pinhole jet of hydraulic fluid can literally cut a finger off, or inject hydraulic fluid straight through your body.. we are, after all, talking about over a ton of pressure (2,000 pounds plus) applied to a square inch of surface... think what would happen if you flip your car upside down and drop it on your finger.. you can kiss the finger goodbye. (It's the same way when working with diesel fuel injection systems - not advisable to mess with it unless you *KNOW* what you are doing...) so, if you are not familiar with it , or have the proper test equipment, you really should take it in to a shop that has experience and equipment to work on hydraulics.

[Skywatcher]

Hi Pitts

As a journeyman heavy duty mechanic with advanced diesel systems certification, also licensed in air brakes, hydraulics and air conditioning, I fully concur with the previous answers; HYDRAULICS CAN BE DANGEROUS - Do NOT dismantle any hydraulic components except removal and reinstallation of the oil filter. By your explanation of the problem, you have checked everything that can be checked by the consumer.

One quick check to make is: With the unit cold to the touch (after having sat over night), start the engine and make it stall out and keep it stalled with a log. Use a sheet of white card to check for high pressure external leaks by holding the card close to all connections. If the card get oily, you have a leak, stop right there and take the unit to an authorized repair shop.

If no external leaks, check for internal leaks. Hydraulic oil will heat up when forced through an orifice or a small opening. After the unit has been held in stall for 2 to 4 minutes, shut engine down and release any trapped pressure by cycling lever a couple of times. Now using a bare hand, feel the entire hydraulic system for hot spots. The pump will be warm because it has just run. If the pump is hot, you either have an internal leak in the pump. If the control valve is hot, the leak is in the valve assembly. I one end of the cylinder is noticeably warmer than the other, my first guess is the nut holding the piston onto the rod has come loose so oil is escaping past the O-ring where the piston seals onto the rod.

This will only give you an idea of where an internal leak may be but is by no means an exhaustive or conclusive test procedure. As previously stated, any and all hydraulic repairs should be performed by a hydraulics technician. Your findings can then be checked against the repair report of the technician. Take care and play it safe,

Sky

[plpitts1]

Awesome, thanks for all the input, I will check out what was suggested and leave the rest alone.
Thanks again,
Pat

[wobbedennis]

I know what everybody said above, and I am in fully agree. I had a hydraulic line blow out on me on a wheel line, and I was soaked from 5 feet away almost instantly. hydraulics are great, but dangerous. Did it just recently start this, or has it sat for a while?

[okie]

Hello Pat
I can't offer anything above whats been said, but if you can keep us up dated, I would appreciate it.

Travis

[plpitts1]

Hello, I have not been able to get back to the unit yet, but hopefully today. I appreciate all the input. I work for a large chain and I’m told we do not have a “program” for taking the unit elsewhere. I have noticed that the weld that holds the frame to the reservoir has a drip. Something like a drip a day. I would not think that this would affect the Hydraulics (no pressure in the reservoir??). Something else to fix. Will follow the procedures above (checking for hot spots and external leaks). I hate to admit it but if that does not get me anywhere I will probably have to order a pump and pray that’s it, realizing that is not the way to do things.
The machine has been down a while, I see no external leeks. I will update the results.
Pat