Convert Tecumseh carb to adjustable?

[38racing]

Umm, why don't you just get the manufacturing carb body number and cross reference it to tecumseh part number, then you'll KNOW what parts you need?

Actually stumbled that direction before reading your note here. It is a 5036 which is a 640054 and is an emissions carb.So definitely not the original on this engine. Still puzzled why idle jet sticks out unless it is not like others i have pulled. I have a 1633 body that i was going to use to replace a dirty old 1632. They translate to different carb numbers and even HP engine. Wonder how they differ internally.look same on outside.

Back at it. One bush find is blowing great. The other I just can't getting running right. It is adjustable both idle and high speed. Surges various degrees. I add choke and it may run better for short time then floods. I may have typo above as it is a 1433 manufacturer number which is a 632370a which shows to be for a 10hp. I have it on a 8hp. That may be the issue. I am thinking about 1. trying a new out of box adjustable carb but I think it is for 10 HP. 2. Trying to clean the old dirty carb. Don't have ultrasonic (yet), so maybe boil in cleaning vinegar? 3. Buy an aftermarket carb for 8HP and hopefully with numbers as per the engine numbers which I hope are readable on the shroud.

[KE4AVB]

Trying to clean the old dirty carb. Don't have ultrasonic (yet), so maybe boil in cleaning vinegar?

If I remember correctly vinegar mainly removes rust and lime scale. If if you still have the dip cleaner around then remove the rubber parts and dip clean overnight. Just don't leave longer as it will turn the aluminum black. Just don't your smaller 2 cycle carburetors as they non-moveable rubber check which are damage by the dip cleaner.

[38racing]

I've read that people boil them in lemon juice so I figured it was the acid content.

[creia]

It is finally time to get this: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... ic+cleaner
We have had it for about 6 years now and it is one of the best investments we ever made. We have got carbs working again using the ultrasonic that we could not with "conventional" means (e.g., dips, sprays, etc.).
Michael

[38racing]

so the engine is hm80-155128C and carb is listed as 631924 as it is for B version.D&E show 632037.F,G&H show 632111 and J shows 632334A. The repair kits shows a change in bowl nut style.Unless I was playing musical carbs the one on it shows manufg number of 1432 which is 632334A. So maybe carb was replaced at some point but I'm guessing that one should work. I have a reapir kit for it but the original is in rough shape. Main adjustment needle rusted out so not sure of internals and the ball plug opposite idle hole on the centre leg is rusted out. I could possibly use a small tap and put a screw in there. Of course I can get an aftermkt carb for $30. Right now I am checking the 1433 that I was using on it. I am not getting full spray from the 3 small transition holes. Have an idea for blocking the spray from centre left hole to force it out the transition holes. Or pull the welch plug , but I don't usually resort to that.

[Arkie]

I usually don't pull welch plugs either at first on old junk that I'm trying to limit amount of money on my own stuff but if the carb won't come around with se3veral cleanings and flogging I take a itty bitty drill bit and carefully drill a small hole in the center of the steel or aluminum welch plug, then take a small awl or ice pick and carefully pry out the plug and clean that area then take a piece of leather or rubber and a rounded end punch and re-shape the welch plug and re-install and then take a fast set epoxy and seal the drilled hole. This lets me know if that welch plug area was the main source of the problem without spending money for a high dollar kit that has welch plugs. You can sometimes go to a small engine shop or napa and get just a welch plug and I have several carb kits around that have new welch plugs that I did not use when installing a kit.

I'm talking about my own eq not a customers. If a customer don't want to buy a new carb or kit I let them work on their own stuff or go elsewhere and let someone else get some mechanical experience.

Main point is I can find out if I'm whipping on a dead horse type carb without throwing good money after bad.
Some of them old Tecumseh carbs are $80 and up and about time you spend that much on a carb the engine will throw a rod all at once thru the side of the block.

[38racing]

well I sprayed and blew for better part of an hour. was almost to point of pulling welch plug when I got the transition holes to spray. put carb back on and it's running good. not much gas in tank so i added a good dose of my homebrew seafoam. ran it a bit. now letting it sit.

[KE4AVB]

I would had pulled that welch plug long before taking an hour but that's just me. My spare time is limited and my luck there would be still be crud in there anyway that is why I save all those spare plugs when I don't use them on a rebuild. I have had a few carburetors come in with them missing and that was the only problem. I had to replace a $120 Stihl carburetor back in the spring because of missing main nozzle welch plug which does not come in the kit or available separately. Frustrating knowing the problem and can't fix it.

I am thinking buying a doming tool where I can make or reshape these small plugs. It sorta like the circle dies I brought for making gasket holes cleaner. I use them make a hard to find gaskets or to add or enlarge a hole when needed to a gasket already on hand.

[Arkie]

I would had pulled that welch plug long before taking an hour but that's just me. My spare time is limited and my luck there would be still be crud in there anyway that is why I save all those spare plugs when I don't use them on a rebuild. I have had a few carburetors come in with them missing and that was the only problem. I had to replace a $120 Stihl carburetor back in the spring because of missing main nozzle welch plug which does not come in the kit or available separately. Frustrating knowing the problem and can't fix it.

I am thinking buying a doming tool where I can make or reshape these small plugs. It sorta like the circle dies I brought for making gasket holes cleaner. I use them make a hard to find gaskets or to add or enlarge a hole when needed to a gasket already on hand.

Been there myself on missing welch plugs or not finding correct size and time wasted on a measly part.. Missing welch plugs is usually caused by Bubba using high pressure air into the carb passages and the welch plug flies off and not noticed.
I've started using low pressure air and not injecting direct into the small carb passages to help reduce possibility of leaking welch plugs.

I bought a chainsaw carb that looked new in the box awhile back from flea bay for just a few dollars and was really proud that I got it cheap and installed it on a chainsaw and the saw was erratic. I knew all the saw needed was a carb because I had removed a good carb from another saw for testing. When I closely examined the new looking carb a small welch plug was missing. I dug around in my welch plug catch all bin and fixed the carb.
A missing welch plug sometimes is not readily apparent due to blind (no welch plug needed) casting holes in some carbs.

[38racing]

Actually this Bubba started out with full air and then turned it down with the new regulator that I just installed (twice). You know, there was an arrow on it indicating air flow direction but I figured that out when it didn't work right.
Since electricity is getting so expensive in Ontario Canada I install a timer for my hot water tank. Seemd to work and then it would just stop. I called the company was just removing it for return when the wiring instruction caught my eye. I had wired the timer to the output side by mistake. So it ran until the timer switch opened the circuit. And that cut power to the timer motor. Sometimes I think I am doing more of that kind of stuff as I age.