bgsengine wrote:Might help a lot if the engine model, spec, and serial were posted - Sears parts lookup for that model seems to sow a single cylinder Courage..?
Sears parts direct shows dual exhaust, but not much help in Id of engine.
Don't even show carb parts.
Correct, not enough real helpful info from the Sears site using just the mower model number.
Just some hints:
Make sure the flywheel is snug. (tight fit and not moving)
I probably would also use a Briggs spark gap tester (not the type with a light bulb) and while the engine is cold then hot I would carefully inspect the spark on each cylinder in a darkened place so as I could see the intensity of the spark real good. (and try it while the engine is stuttering if possible)
I've seen coils (especially magneto type) produce a weaker spark to one cylinder and the comparison spark gap test (using the Briggs spark gap tester) of each cylinder while the engine is running made the spark test visually more apparent. (sometimes these engines when hot would be starting on only one cylinder when hot or warmed up and then run on both cylinders after it started but one cylinder was weaker due to weak ignition. engine would start ok if cold but flood easily and hard to start SOMETIMES when hot. (and new spark plugs would help but problem would re-surface in few hours)
Very hard to find this type ignition problem when it first starts because it's usually intermittent and erratic.
Sometimes you can
ground a spark plug with a screwdriver on a multi cylinder engine while it's idling slow and compare the rpm droop so as to see if each cylinder is producing equal power. If you can't slide the insulator boot up on the wire for such insert a solid bare wire into the spark plug boot or make a extension adapter using a piece of 1/4 inch ID copper tubing so as to apply a ground after the engine is running.
Don't just pull a plug wire off while the engine is running because this will usually produce a ignition feedback upset to the other cylinders or to yourself.