Float or sink?

[Dale_W]

Hi everybody.

Yup the leak I was referring to was the leak in the float. A long time ago I had a snow blower with a leaky float that Bubba either stepped on or used a BFH on. I could actually see the crack in the float. That one I soldered up. So my first thought here was to solder up this one. But the hole is SO small I cannot find it. Maybe it's osmosis? that lets gas into the float (kidding). I have a new float on order.

And Roy, yes oh yes the gas was spewing out the vent! I would have thought a leaky float would be like a .000000001 % probability. But a malfunctioning Needle valve higher probability.


So now on to a new question. This carb rattles when I shake it. It must have that little check valve? I seem to remember something from the PERR website about those.

Is it a not replaceable part? Does anybody remember what the deal was with that little rattling ball?

Thanks for all your help!

Dale

[bgsengine]

So now on to a new question. This carb rattles when I shake it. It must have that little check valve? I seem to remember something from the PERR website about those.

Is it a not replaceable part? Does anybody remember what the deal was with that little rattling ball?

Thanks for all your help!

Dale

Not a ball. Be VERY careful when putting the idle adjust needle back in that you are holding carburetor "upright" (Float would be hanging down) The rattle comes from a metering rod (not replaceable) and if you hold carb upside down the rod sticks down in the idle port (You'd be able to see it through the adjuster screw hole) and the tip of the needle jams on it and bends the rod (no more rattle = useless carburetor) and often damaged the needle tip as well.

*SOME* carburetors have that metering rod (Idle needle is actually air adjustment and turns in to make mixture richer) you can spot them because the neede has a long shank after the threads and a somewhat blunted point . The ones without the metering rod , the idle needle is a mixture adjustment (turns out to richen mixture) and does not have that long shank - and tapers to a much sharper point. Those won't have a metering rod and thus should not rattle when shaken - Due to that article on outdoor power info, I have had a number of customers come in looking for new carburetor because they thought their carburetor was not fixable since it did not rattle like the article suggested , so I try to make it a point to make sure that seemingly minor point is made clear -

But again just make sure you hold carb "float-down" so metering rod falls down away from the idle port when you install the needle.

The metering rod is a steel rod about an inch or so long that slides up and down in that idle fuel passage - one of the functions is that it helps to "aerate" the fuel so it mixes easily with the air coming in to the mixing chamber (air controlled by the adjustment needle) - You'll also want to ensure the air bleed passage in the carb throat (ahead of the choke plate) is clear - blocking that blocks the air feeding to the mixing chamber and you won't be able to adjust the idle air mixture effectively (in fact Ive seen them so bad you can completely remove the idle air mixture needle and engine will still run, although rather lean)

[wristpin]

Quite surprised that no one mentioned holding the float down in a pan of freshly boiled water and watching for the bubbles if there's a leak. Safer IMO than fuel vapour squirting out in the presence of a heat gun!

[bgsengine]

Quite surprised that no one mentioned holding the float down in a pan of freshly boiled water and watching for the bubbles if there's a leak. Safer IMO than fuel vapour squirting out in the presence of a heat gun!

Never even thought of that , but then.. I shake the float, feel the slosh, and toss it in the scrap pile - never bothered trying to *find* the leak - its enough that it *did* leak at some point and will again.

[StarTech]

and that is not counting the time it took to straighten them...

[wristpin]

Quite surprised that no one mentioned holding the float down in a pan of freshly boiled water and watching for the bubbles if there's a leak. Safer IMO than fuel vapour squirting out in the presence of a heat gun!

Never even thought of that , but then.. I shake the float, feel the slosh, and toss it in the scrap pile - never bothered trying to *find* the leak - its enough that it *did* leak at some point and will again.

Always assuming the availability of a new float in the the available time scale of course!