Briggs twin base gasket

[BLES]

They say there's no such thing as a stupid question, so here goes....

22hp Briggs from a JD lawn tractor. #441777-0116-E1

Has an oil leak from what appears to be the base gasket, but could possibly be #2 head gasket, too.

Is it possible to just pull the bottom cover and replace the gasket without disassembling the whole engine? Would save a ton of time versus a complete teardown. Something makes me think this would be too easy though.???

BLES

[KE4AVB]

Yes it possible but I would go ahead and replace pto seal too while I got it a part. I also would remove the georotor and drive shaft so I align them back up after putting the crankcase cover back on but that just me as I don't like going fishing the driveshaft after finding had slipped out.

If you unsure where the leak is use an UV dye tracer.

[Fulltilt]

Pretty much what he said, I would add you want to make sure the head gasket ain't leaking.
Parts can be looked up here: https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/repair-parts

Manual #273521 can be had from this forum here :
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... jlrTnFmVWc

[38racing]

Is there a thread somewhere about big problems with leaking base gaskets on a Briggs Vtwin?

[Luffydog]

Very common issue with those. Happens a lot. Two or three here a week during busy season. Already have done 4 this year.

[BLES]

Very common issue with those. Happens a lot. Two or three here a week during busy season. Already have done 4 this year.

Can you comment on the repair procedure you use? How long, how easy/difficult?? Anything to add seeing you obviously have experience on your side?!

Thanks for all the comments so far.

BLES

[KE4AVB]

Ahhh I see the problem. Dang loose bolts. The 594195 gasket kit comes with 10 bolts with thread lock applied which are torqued to 300 in lbs. Older engines were only torqued to 200 in lbs. Glad I haven't had any problems here but I only got 5 listed in the customer files. Most of my V-twins customers here are using either Kohler or Kawasaki.

[Fulltilt]

Very common issue with those. Happens a lot. Two or three here a week during busy season. Already have done 4 this year.

Can you comment on the repair procedure you use? How long, how easy/difficult?? Anything to add seeing you obviously have experience on your side?!

Thanks for all the comments so far.

BLES

The book calls for something like .002 - .030 crank end play, so that shouldn't be an issue, just check it before you tear it apart.
One thing I always do ( some do, some don't ) is spray the sump gasket with sealer, usually red Hi-Tack from Permatex.
I generally use that, or spray Copper Coat on all the gaskets of any motor. Except head gaskets, of course.

[Luffydog]

Yes they do come in a kit like stated. Bolts,gaskets and papers with tightened sequence. From pulling the motor washing it clean drain and replace the gasket I use permatex blue. Also don't forget the little cover on the bottom that is the oil pump shaft that goes in the cam. Hardest part is cleaning the gasket off making sure it is clean from old gasket and free of oil. Take your time and I say it can be done in about 3hrs or less. Also have to order crankshaft pto side seal for the sump. Good luck sorry I didn't get back quicker. Fairly easy job over all.

[Arkie]

Is that a vertical shaft Briggs?

Reason I ask is keep a heads up about the governor stuff when you lift the bottom sump off, sometimes the governor shaft comes with the sump and small pieces may fall into the block and not be readily apparent until you start up the repaired engine and no governor control and or gear teeth get sheared from small metal pieces inside, make sure all governor stuff is ok before re-installing the sump. If you mess up you will have to buy new gaskets again. If you are not real familiar with what to expect make a trial practice go stabbing the sump without using a gasket the first time.
Also I like to take all the crank end play to minimum specs so as to keep the crank from pecking on the sump.
I sometimes have to make shim washers for the end of the crankshaft to get the end play to minimum specs.
It's quite common for a new gasket to start leaking if all is not cleaned good and care taken and I try to keep the gasket as thin as possible. (some briggs have different thickness gaskets or stack paper gaskets so as to get some crank end play if too tight) specs and the more stacked gaskets the more likely of future failures IMHO)
Check the end play of the crank before you take the sump off. Then mic a piece of the old gasket after you get the sump off. I made a steel plate that I can bolt to the side of the engine for the magnetic mic holder so as to get a real precise end play reading. I have also found that getting the crankshaft end play to minimum specs reduces or completely removes the harmonic engine knock that some Briggs engines have a certain engines speeds.

Someone posted a question thread on here awhile back, several months ago about sump gaskets leaking on Briggs engines and several good tips about how easy it is to have a new gasket failure. Keep in mind the aluminum sump and block is expanding and contracting as the engine heats and cools. I've seen them sump gaskets seal ok when cool but leak hot oil real fast when the block gets warm.