Courage SV590 Starter Current Draw

[KE4AVB]

What is the normal current draw for the SV590? I know it is not the ACR that is the problem but the engine is stalling at TDC compression. May just a higher CCA battery as currently it has a 190.(tested at 210)

[bgsengine]

I'm assuming you have done the voltage drop tests? I think normal current draw would be around 60 amps or so, usually less.. but if I see an issue like that , it usually crops up in a voltage drop test and if that passes, pull the starter and bench test (20-30 amps I think would be the norm)

[Fulltilt]

In addition, the service manual calls for a battery of 250 CCA .

[KE4AVB]

I'm assuming you have done the voltage drop tests? I think normal current draw would be around 60 amps or so, usually less.. but if I see an issue like that , it usually crops up in a voltage drop test and if that passes, pull the starter and bench test (20-30 amps I think would be the norm)

I seeing 90 amps under load. Done checked grounds and plus leads. Even tried another starter replay. I done disassembled the starter and cleaned the commutator ring and brushes looks good. I am thinking about ordering a new set brushes ( just in case the brushes are glassed over) and a starter but I am going to town after UPS runs today to pick-up 4ea 300 CCA batteries 2 LH and 2 RH.

The voltage @ TDC is about 9.7v during the stall with rest of the time about 10.5 - 11v. I will need to pull the starter for the bench current draw test. Could still be voltage drop problem with MTD using 8 ga cables. At least they are all copper on this one.

And yes Fulltilt I know the SM says 250 CCA but MTD is installing the 190 CCA batteries so I am trying to find the root cause. The engine does have 170 hrs on it so it may just be a worn out starter which why I was needing the current draws. I haven't rebuilt a Kohler starter in 4 yrs and then it was solenoid shift model.

[KE4AVB]

We see what happen tomorrow. Before and After battery change out. Top is rated CCA and bottom is the test results

[Arkie]

Those types can be the tough ones to figure out sometimes. (hanging at TDC compression)
Something just a little bit bad. and I'm a registered electrician and lic'ed electronic troubleshooter tech)
I have all kinds of battery testers and electrical testers and sometimes everything is just barely within specs on voltage drop and current draw and still hang up.
I have a real good set of heavy duty jumper cables and I can sometimes take a good automotive battery and jumper to the other battery and cables at different places to see if it's the old starter dragging just a little bit and/or use a heavy duty jumper cable to bypass the existing battery cable connections, especially from the engine block back to the existing battery neg post.
I sometimes find a dry and little bit worn bushing on the Bendix end of the starter is just enough additional friction/drag on the starter to cause such and the starter will bench test ok.
At least you are not going at it backwards at first like some, NEW battery, NEW starter, NEW solenoid, then find the block not grounded good.

[KE4AVB]

With new battery cranking amps are now up to 104 and cranking a lot better still a little hesitation @TDC. Just going see the customer has anymore problems before trying a starter or tearing down the engine but with ACR bumping it should need to be at the current time.

[hanz63]

You might recall that these earlier models had issues with the ACR. The plastic gear let go of the spring I think? It has been awhile since I had one. If you slip a feeler gauge in at the rocker, what does your draw then say? Of course the starters are new and improved as well- higher torque /speed.

[KE4AVB]

You might recall that these earlier models had issues with the ACR. The plastic gear let go of the spring I think? It has been awhile since I had one. If you slip a feeler gauge in at the rocker, what does your draw then say? Of course the starters are new and improved as well- higher torque /speed.

Actually haven't heard that one. Do you how a general cutoff date? Current engine produced in 2013.

I can see the ACR bumping the exhaust valve so that really shouldn't be the issue. Don't want the valve cover again as finally got the RTV to hold.

[Luffydog]

Does kinda sound like the cam and or acr might not be working correctly. Maybe worn cam or possibly cracked acr not working properly at times. Had one doing something to this affect about 3 yrs ago. All seemed good with valves so went to starter then on to battery did all the checks. Then I had another person every so often as they went by to crank. At every time he went by it cranked over good. So thought all was ok until it was time to go home. Del. Man got on it to crank and no go. We bring it in and inspect. checked the valves right off all good. Battery ok as well. I ended up pulling motor out looked at the cam sure enough the acr was broke. From the best I could tell it had been on its way for a while and finally took itself out. After the replacement all was well. Had a few of those to come apart and bust thur the block. All the signs went into different directions until it it finally broke.