Kubota Steering Cylinder

[KE4AVB]

Anyone got any info rebuilding a Kubota K7581-16500 steering cylinder? Especially disassembly.

[KE4AVB]

[KE4AVB]

Guess it too tough for members here. I should have known...

I call my chief and he is sending me to see Nightowl in Nashville for the training I need on this in the morning. I seldom work on a Kubota but the local dealer was of no help.

[bgsengine]

Yeah. - Have not seen any Kubota to work on (They got to the local dealer, not many people have capability to haul theirs around, so dealer gets the pickup / delivery call) However the steering cylinder, I assume you mean the hydraulic valve? Ive done steering boxes on some older tractors , steering valves (power steering) on caterpillars, John Deere, and others, but no Kubotas - However if you mean the steering cylinder (hydraulic cylinder) you might want to take them to a specialist hydraulic shop - some of the torque values, cleanliness requirements, and assembly tools can be astonishingly high

[Fulltilt]

Guess it too tough for members here. I should have known...

I call my chief and he is sending me to see Nightowl in Nashville for the training I need on this in the morning. I seldom work on a Kubota but the local dealer was of no help.

I'd say it's too tough for at least one member, huh?

You do know that some cylinders can't be rebuilt/repaired, right? They could be sealed/ welded.

Of the ones that can be , typically, the rod end cap unscrews with a face type pin spanner, or side pin spanner. Then there's the ones that have a wire clip type deal that is inserted in a hole in the side of the cyl, at the cap. Usually they have an end semi protruding from the hole that you can grab with a vise grip and extract it from the circumferential locking groove that's cut in the cyl. and cap.

[KE4AVB]

You do know that some cylinders can't be rebuilt/repaired, right? They could be sealed/ welded.

Of the ones that can be , typically, the rod end cap unscrews with a face type pin spanner, or side pin spanner. Then there's the ones that have a wire clip type deal that is inserted in a hole in the side of the cyl, at the cap. Usually they have an end semi protruding from the hole that you can grab with a vise grip and extract it from the circumferential locking groove that's cut in the cyl. and cap.

This one I know was rebuild-able as I had the rebuild kit here, just no instructions with the parts list. No screw on caps or weldings. Matter of fact the two caps are just slip-ons for mounting purposes only.

Well Nightowl called me at 3am. Now I know why he called Nightowl. He said he could save me long trip if I had the required tools here. He said he knew the local dealer and he is a JA.

It was quite simple to do with brass tools I already had plus the 22mm and 32mm wrenches to remove the the tie rods assemblies. So it is rebuilt now after a couple pots of coffee and a hone to remove the rust on one end. Wasn't in a critical area just made slide out parts more difficult from that end. I would never had to rebuild it if the one that assemble it didn't damaged the seals in the first place. I was surprise it wasn't leaking on both ends.

Now to repair that $1100 chainsaw in the shop. Darn owner stripped out the starter mounting screw at chain brake handle. Got to drill out, tap, and install a new metric 5 mm thread insert. Ordered those yesterday along with $10 install tool.

[Fulltilt]

... No screw on caps or weldings. Matter of fact the two caps are just slip-ons for mounting purposes only.

.

I'm confused... not having actually worked on that particular cylinder, though having rebuilt many other small hydraulic/steering cyl., I was curious as to what you meant. So a quick GOOGLE turned up this :
http://www.colemanequip.com/Kubota-RTV1 ... TS-134842/?

Sure looks like the cyl. has removable end caps ( heads, if you will) that most definitly screw in, like I said previously, correct?

[KE4AVB]

Nope they are not screwed in and btw that is the wrong cylinder as that one is screwed together. You're looking at the K7571-16500 and not the K7581-16500. The seal kit for the K7571 will not work on the K7581 version.

Here is snap shot of the K-pad image. The K7581 on the left and the K7571 on the right.

And layout is NOT the assembly order either for K7581.

[Fulltilt]

Nope they are not screwed in and btw that is the wrong cylinder as that one is screwed together. You're looking at the K7571-16500 and not the K7581-16500. The seal kit for the K7571 will not work on the K7581 version.

You're right. I will add, callout # 010 at the top of the list on the page/IPL i linked you to, lists the cyl as K7581. Replacing K7571. So, focusing on the illustration, I figured i was looking at your unit. Obviously not. Revisiting the link, I noticed that all the callout numbers below the top are for the K7571.
I suppose the keyword here is "Quick look".
At least you got it fixed, right?