Fulltilt wrote:Arkie wrote:I would think about checking the crank/rod clearance with plasti gauge in 4 90 degree places with the new rod.
If you have a micrometer check the crank to make sure it's round, but plasti
gauge will tell.
You can do this with the crank and rod on the workbench out of the block.
Plasti gage ? How is that going to work on a " messed up" rod big end and crank journal ?
Not to mention what Roy said.
He asked this:
Is there a chance I can salvage this crank? A new one is about 70-90 bucks.
What I was referring too using plastigauge is to check the clearance with the new rod after he has tried to clean up his old crank rod journal.
He indicated he is trying to remove the aluminum transfer from the old crank journal and re-use the crank with a NEW rod.
I would check the crank throw with a micrometer and make sure it's not goose egged and check the clearance instead of just throwing a new rod on a cleaned up journal and hope for the best. Should be easy to check the rod clearance on the work bench. He did not mention if the end of the journals at the flywheel and output shaft ends of his crankshaft had aluminum transfer that transfer is from the block and he needs to abandon all. He mentioned the engine was operated with no oil in the crankcase.
He can read how to use plastigauge and check the clearances at 90 degrees to the first test for the second test to compare clearances and make sure the crank journal is round and with specs.
He can review how to use plastigauge on you tube. I use plastigauge quite often to check rod and main bearing clearances.
I'm wondering why you say that the new rod and old crank clearances CANNOT be checked using plastigauge after he attempts the aluminum transfer removal?
Its a single cylinder L head Briggs engine and no needle or roller bearing involved.
I would not touch it with a 10 ft pole to rebuild to sell unless I was going to sell it to a brother in law.
Respectfully.