lefty wrote:So aside from the condition of the journal, scoring, transfer and so forth, I should be concerned with and check for out of round?
Try to clean up the crank
first removing the aluminum transfer so as to
see the condition of the metal throw and then check for out of round, then see if you can find specs. If you can find the Briggs crank rod throw specs and you do not have a micrometer, take the crank to a machine shop and ask for the SERVIVR manager or owner) and have them mic the crank per the spec's you give them. (you need to tell them what the specs are so as they are not wasting valuable time messing around with it and they will be more friendly with you, usually.) They know they are most generally not going to make any money repairing a single cylinder Briggs crank and they are doing you a favor for possible other future work and public relations because they are working on larger stuff for profit most generally.
That is one reason
($$ and time and time is money) in modern times it's most generally a throw away and replace world instead of trying to repair UNLESS you have the time and can do it for yourself and/or want the re-build experience.
If you find the crank within specs and you get a rod, new, or a used rod from a donor motor then use plastigauge to check your clearance while the crank is on the workbench. (plastigauge is the final check fittament showing you the real world oil clearances and confirms that you have at least the proper fit rod for that crank)
AND don't feel depressed if you put it together and it explodes, even new OEM motors fail.
You then know you overlooked something, like maybe not torqueing the rod bolts or maybe spilled some OLD Milwaukee acidic green beer in the block or you had too much beer while putting it together.