Briggs & Stratton Crank

[KE4AVB]

Lightly clean again with the acid then rinse the crank journal with water and oil afterwards, that should take care of the rust flash. Just don't add the water directly into the acid container. See the cautions on label.

[lefty]

That's a great idea. This time I'll be sure to rinse it off after. Thank you.

[lefty]

Well this is going well so far but I've run into a snag. This is obviously my first time. So I've assembled the piston and rod but can not, as hard as I try, get that little pin in. I believe it's called a wrist pin. If I didn't know any better, I'd say it's impossible. Any tips?

Thanks

[lefty]

Please disregard my last. I searched the forum and found some useful tips that worked. Should have done that first. My apologies.

[bgsengine]

Well this is going well so far but I've run into a snag. This is obviously my first time. So I've assembled the piston and rod but can not, as hard as I try, get that little pin in. I believe it's called a wrist pin. If I didn't know any better, I'd say it's impossible. Any tips?

Thanks

They are a VERY tight fit to the piston in some cases - and also check the piston and make sure your G-clips or piston pin clips are not already installed try the pin in the connecting rod only and see if it fits - it has to go in square and should be a very close (but not tight) fit - if it is a new piston, make sure you are not trying to put the pin in from the side that already (sometimes) has a retaining clip installed - and see if the pin will slip into the piston where it is supposed to go.

and yes it is also called a wrist pin.

[lefty]

Once again, thank you. Everything has gone well.

[lefty]

So I got this thing back together and guess what....no extra parts!

My first rebuild is done but there's one problem...I'm too scared to start it. Is there anything I should know before I start her up? Just pull and hope for the best?

I replaced the piston, rod and rings, related gaskets and oil seals. I lapped the valves and cleaned the carb. I also honed the cylinder.

[bgsengine]

everything torqued down/. got fresh oil in 'er? then fire 'er up - worst that can happen is a rod going through the side of the block, pretty much (unless you forgot to tighten the blade bolt.. )

[KE4AVB]

As BGS said just start it up after you done a mental check of what you have done including timing and that you have done the static governor setup. Don't forget this static adjustment or you will have a runaway engine. Always be prepared for a quick shutdown if needed if something isn't right.

Rebuilding a small single cylinder is the best when as it a lot less costly if things does go wrong. Once you get a few these done then you will feel more confident in doing the next which would oversizing the cylinder. But this would require a ridge hone as flex won't straighten out an ovaled or a tapered or both of a worn cylinder.

One last thing I hope you didn't feed the gremlins after midnight.

[lefty]

Thanks guys. Regarding the governor.... the exterior governor arm is bolted to the shaft that comes out of the engine. I believe this is where the adjustment is made. When I disassembled the engine, I did not mess around with this setting. I left all the governor linkage intact. Do I still need to set this or should it be fine as is?